AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Mighty 258 => Engine Electrical Systems. => Topic started by: 84eaglelmz on September 12, 2014, 06:22:28 PM
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Well, My transfercase is back and running. But i still have a few more issues with the car before it is road worthy again. One is the Alternator is not charging the battery. I can jump the alternator to make it charge, but it won't do it on its own. Im getting the car back tomorrow, But would like to have a place to start when I try to figure it out. All the wires seem to be hooked up. What should I check for?
Thanks.
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Does the alt light come on when you turn the key on? If not, replace the bulb. Power passes through it to the sensor lead on the alt to engage the regulator.
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no it doesn't come on. thats what I was afraid of. I have the book here to remove the dash, but I really don't understand it. (directions are not my strong point) any directions or pictures somewhere on how to replace the bulbs?
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This may help.
http://amceaglesden.com/guide/index.php?title=Instrument_Cluster_Removal
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its a start, Is the dash compartment the glove compartment? And gauge package? What i really need is pictures :newbie: but ill see how this goes.
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Depending on arm size.........I pull the radio and can reach the speedo cable.
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With no AC I can barely reach mine from below (but I have a boarding house reach!)
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Well now i started it and the battery light came on and the alt is charging. Something is fishy under there. Also the battery cable starts to smoke if the car doesn't start right up. If its cranking its a smokin'.
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Sounds like something is shorted to ground somewhere. Have you checked the condition of your wires to see that they haven't rubbed through?
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Sounds like corroded cable and more. Negative or positive cable?
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I had a cable melt right off the battery terminal once, I was lucky it wasn't a fire. Replace those cables.
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It all looks fine, Ill snap some photos of the wiring mess. I want to try to clean it all up but I suck at electrical. There has been many "mods" I think in there. from previous owners. No corrosion, that i see anywhere.
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Some previous owners should be drawn and quartered.
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And shat upon!
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(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u479/Logan_Zehr/20140926_104250_zps998e8b79.jpg) (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/Logan_Zehr/media/20140926_104250_zps998e8b79.jpg.html)
What are these?
(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u479/Logan_Zehr/20140926_104220_zpsd1f33add.jpg) (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/Logan_Zehr/media/20140926_104220_zpsd1f33add.jpg.html)(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u479/Logan_Zehr/20140926_104210_zps367728b0.jpg) (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/Logan_Zehr/media/20140926_104210_zps367728b0.jpg.html)(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u479/Logan_Zehr/20140926_104220_zpsd1f33add.jpg) (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/Logan_Zehr/media/20140926_104220_zpsd1f33add.jpg.html)
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First one is fusible links. Second looks like an ammeter or something (Radio amp?) was hooked up with the blue wire.
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Whatever is going on with that blue wire spliced into the yellow looks fishy. So does the free hanging solenoid connector that was replaced with the black wire.
It looks like the positive cable has been replaced at one time with a temporary battery clamp.
I know some aftermarket wiring diagrams will disagree with me, but I contend that the proper distribution point is never a battery clamp. It should be either like the old way most manufacturers did it, off the solenoid, or like modern cars off of a distribution block that connects with one heavy gauge wire to the battery clamp. Too much chance of shorting out or overloading otherwise. Likewise, grounds go to the block or frame.
Think of it this way: the battery is not the source of power, the Alternator is. The battery just helps the alternator when it's not keeping up, so you want the connection points to center around the alternator's connections which are the engine block and the solenoid or distribution block. The battery is just hanging off a side lead.
I don't trust the brush-on insulator and the twist connections. Automotive crimp connecters or soldering (there's a debate about soldering) and shrink tube are the way to go. Self-fusing tape works when you forget to put the tube on first, and doesn't leave a sticky residue or unravel. Vinyl electrical tape is not good around oil, gas, and engine heat.
Either someone was hiding a problem or wired in an accessory wrong, but the blue and yellow wire need to go and I'm not thrilled about the looks of that battery cable.
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That blue wire off the battery was for extra Lights. I did that, The blue wire spliced with yellow, is the Coil resistor wire bypass. I did that also, I know its horrible at the moment, but I wanted to make sure it worked before a more permeant solution. I was thinking I redo the wires aways so I cobbled that for the time being.
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Follow the wires from the alternator. They break on the interior, not to mention I think 1 has a fusible link on the inside.
Mine did the same thing, randomly charged and only sometimes worked due to a interior wire being broken. Replace that and it worked, nice and easy.
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someone told me to replace all the wires there, and leave out the fusible links on here. what does everyone think?
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Fusible links are the weak spot that makes you NOT have a car-b-que when there is a short!
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Can i replace the fusible links then? I have to do something or my car will bbq as it is.
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Yes. Most fusible links are just smaller gauge wire, usually 4 or so smaller, put in place to protect against power surges and the like. Could make one yourself out of old wire.
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4 gauge wire? Lol thats battery cable thick. Ill have to look up how to make them.
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Fusible links are a special kind of wire with a special insulation that is supposed to bubble to indicate a problem but not burn and slough off so as to not create another short. There's a list in the TSM of the gauges and lengths of fusable links, or I at least recall seeing a list in a TSM. They're usually a matte red color and are thicker than the wire they splice into, the special insulation is much thicker than regular wire insulation. Auto parts stores will have rolls or bundles of fusible links.
Modern cars often use megafuses or maxifuses, but they don't replace the slow-blow characteristics of fusible links. In some cases fuses can be used as a replacement, but you need to make sure you use the correct amperage so that you don't overload the wiring. It depends on the electrical load.
For safety's sake I like a fuse of some sort as close to the distribution point as possible, I don't want a damaged wire causing a fire. If your coil resistor bypass doesn't I'd make sure to get one on there.
Here's a nice writeup http://minimopar.net/electrical-links.html (http://minimopar.net/electrical-links.html)
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I meant 4 guage less. So if the wire was 10gauge you'd have a link of 14guage
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Ok thanks! I will get some fuseable wire, Soldering tips, and start hacking away. Hopefully all turns out well like i said I SUCK at electrical. I need an eagle enthusiast friend in Northern NY :)
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According to the S.O.A.R. map there's a member in Verona, NY.
https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zyNrFs2eSZX4.kXdwco89CkaM
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There are alot in penn as well. That would be nice if i was closer to there lol
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What gauge wire is used in the Eagle? If anyone knows quick?
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I recall the alt output wire being 14 gauge or 12 gauge. Barely enough for stock amperage handling. I added a 14 gauge harness straight from the alt to my battery + from an S10 I parted.