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Author Topic: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 "Silver Beast" (from Finland)  (Read 12633 times)

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Offline HornetRWB

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1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 "Silver Beast" (from Finland)
« on: September 21, 2014, 03:55:27 PM »
So..  First post and directly into projects.. ;) Actually I've been lurking around as a guest for some time - looking into differences from first year and others. You've got very good info ava√≠lable here so warm Thanks for it!

I've been driving AMCs for a very long time and started the local club for them about 15 years ago (AMC Club Finland, www.amccf.com). I've had a Hornet for a very long time (painted red-white-blue hence the nick) and wife's daily drivers have been Jeep Cherokee XJ's so I'm once I'm done I'm not really expecting anything crazy new, just good all-around 4WD station wagon.

Eagles like any other AMCs are not very common in Finland so took me a while to find one. This one is actually originally from Switzerland where it acted as a mountain taxi for most of it's life. It was privately brought to Finland in 2008-2009 and was never driven after. Bought it now and planning to put it into good use during next couple weeks. Parts are hard to find in Finland, since there's a total of 5 Eagles in the country... So ebay is my only option at the moment, hoping maybe to find parts here on the forum too.


It's rust free, due to the fact that they don't use road salt in Switzerland, not dent-free and hoping to get those sorted soon. Paint is original and fairly good except on the roof where it's gotten some chemicals or tree sap on it, we'll see what I'll do with that.





Headliner is sagging all around and interior needs a good wash (I just vacuumed the rat droppings and dirt out..), mold and mildew buildup everywhere, so it will take a lot of work... But again, fairly intact interior - no tears and nothing is broken. You can see the taxi equipment in the passenger side too - those will be taken away soon (and saved).



Plans are to fix the paint issues, clean the look back to 'sport' (chrome grille -> black grille...etc), quick resto on the inside, fix the headliner, tune up the engine and then get the car registered for traffic before the winter. Lots to do, but I'm looking forward to it.

 :amc:
« Last Edit: November 19, 2014, 05:35:06 AM by HornetRWB »
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- AMC Eagle Sport STW 1980 258cid+TF998 Silver
- AMC Hornet SST 2D 1970 343cid+T10 Red-White-Blue
- AMC Rebel SST 2D HT 1969 360cid+TF727 Midnight blue
- Jeep Cherokee Limited XJ 4.0L+autom Black
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Online AMC of Houston

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2014, 05:42:22 PM »
Welcome aboard!!   I love your part of the world -- spent a lot of time in Norway back when I was a working stiff.

Try denatured alcohol on your tree sap spots -- you'll be surprised how well it takes out those brown sap spots.
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Online eaglefreek

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2014, 06:38:11 PM »
Welcome, nice looking bird and interesting history. What is that big round gauge on the passenger side? Taxi meter? Rockauto.com is a good source for parts, but not sure if they ship to Europe.
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Offline Gil-SX4

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2014, 11:23:57 PM »
Nice find, looks good concider the age of our Eagles, yours looks real good!!!!!!! :hello2:
Welcome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Offline Prafeston

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2014, 12:07:09 AM »
Looks really good man. Those sports are sexy!
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Offline HornetRWB

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2014, 03:12:23 AM »
Thanks for all the feedback, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.  :occasion14: ;D

Try denatured alcohol on your tree sap spots -- you'll be surprised how well it takes out those brown sap spots.

I hate to waste alcohol, but I guess the Eagle deserves a drink too, even if it's denatured... So I gotta give that a try. ;) I wonder though if alcohol would also get that droooping headliner fixed, I do have a bottle of good single malt which I may drink in the car next weekend.. Just to give that a try too...

Welcome, nice looking bird and interesting history. What is that big round gauge on the passenger side? Taxi meter? Rockauto.com is a good source for parts, but not sure if they ship to Europe.

Ye, that's part of the taxi setup, it's a huge speedo with one of those 'draw a paper disc while driving' kind of things (no clue what they're called, I've seen a few on old 18 wheelers way back), propably the car had two drivers and they ran different log discs to keep books. There's also at least 12 'do not smoke' stickers and the seats have a few ash burns.. I guess the Swiss aren't that good at following rules..  :police:

Rockauto works for us Finns to, they ship but bad thing about them is their million different warehouses - so if you put in an order it may be shipped from several places and then the taxman gets funny. :P Oh well, still worth it.

And as to the project, both front doorhandles are broken - but I've got plently of Hornet parts so I'm guessing those fit well from Hornet. Also most of the locks are busted  (or working poorly) so I'll likely just get new ones as a mate already pointed out they're very cheap. Trunklid also isn't opening due to the fact that the key doesn't work, I'll have to jimmy that open or just take out some plastics from the trunk and get the thing open from the inside. Pics upcoming as I get around to actuall doing something (else than planning about doing something)..  >:D
« Last Edit: September 22, 2014, 03:14:28 AM by HornetRWB »
^
cRazy Finnish AMCer...
- AMC Eagle Sport STW 1980 258cid+TF998 Silver
- AMC Hornet SST 2D 1970 343cid+T10 Red-White-Blue
- AMC Rebel SST 2D HT 1969 360cid+TF727 Midnight blue
- Jeep Cherokee Limited XJ 4.0L+autom Black
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Offline HornetRWB

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2014, 01:47:30 AM »
So this was my engine room and smog equipment when purchased:



Some of the hoses were plugged and others just left disconnected, no wonder it ran poorly and just barely started up. Also no idle.



Since Finnish EPA doesn't give a :censored: about old classic cars, as long as we pass Finnish inspection limits of the manufacturing year (which I know from prior experience the 258cid will if it's running correctly). I decided to delete the smog equipment totally.



First took out all the hoses and then the equipment itself one by one. Then plugged in the extra holes in the carb, connected the cruise control (to the intake vacuum in the back) and brake booster (to the intake vacuum on the middle). Also noticed the distributor vacuum was disconnected before I even started so I plugged that into the lower carb body vacuum connection on the front right. Please let me know if I put something in the wrong place.

Then I continued to plug in all those crankshaft vacuum holes (2 in front, 3 in back) and the extra vacuum from the back of the intake and the valve on the side of the intake. I also plugged up the exhaust rail on the top by the back of the carb - I'll remove that completely later this week. There was also a plugged in bigger vacuum connection on the back of the carb so I left that as is. Question however is that I found a vacuum hose going down likely into the transmission/distribution box, this wasn't connected to anywhere, should it be?



Then I plugged the breather on the front of the valve cover and since the rear breather was already connected by a Y-connector to the air filter box AND a line that runs down the engine's side to the ground - I left that 'as-is'. Likely I'll connect that to a breathing catch bottle (like I did on my previous Wrangler 4.7 stroker) and save some air filters in the progress.

Then I just did a base adjustment to the mixture screws (they were open ~3 and ~2.5 turns, they're now both open 2 turns) and started the engine up. It fired immediately and ran nicely. Although after a few seconds the idle was still gone, so I assume the problem is likely inside the carb (I'm guessing there's an idle circuit there that's blocked?). If I can't get this carb to run I'll probably replace it with a 2150 Motorcraft that I have from '69-'70 304cid, from what I've been reading on the forum they seem to be popular. However I'm a bit concerned about the additional hassle of the kickdown linkage etc, I'd much rather just keep the carb for this winter - as I'm likely swapping a 4.0 head (or entire driveline from an XJ) next year.

So, about the smog removal and connections done - any thoughts, pointers or ideas?
« Last Edit: September 23, 2014, 01:53:38 AM by HornetRWB »
^
cRazy Finnish AMCer...
- AMC Eagle Sport STW 1980 258cid+TF998 Silver
- AMC Hornet SST 2D 1970 343cid+T10 Red-White-Blue
- AMC Rebel SST 2D HT 1969 360cid+TF727 Midnight blue
- Jeep Cherokee Limited XJ 4.0L+autom Black
www.amccf.com

Offline carnuck

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2014, 11:22:14 AM »
You want the PCV hooked up (it was in the front hole on the valve cover and goes to the back of the carb.) The carb was set up to run with this "vacuum leak". The charcoal cannister hooks to the 2 large hoses on the top front of the carb. That just catches fuel vapors from the tank and puts them down the carb on start up so you don't smell raw fumes. I'm not a fan of EGR valves but unless you deal with the ping by retarding timing or going a colder range of sparkplug (I run NGK BKR6EK which are same as VW uses) or replace the timing chain/gears with a roller set from a '91 up 4.0L (retarding the cam cures ping). Especially if you do the head swap, which is mainly done to get rid of the plastic valve cover you don't have.
   Speaking of the carb, grab it and see if it's at all twist-able. If yes, then the lack of idle is because of the vacuum leak in the mid body and/or clogged idle tubes (I cross #1 and #6 wires and make the motor backfire to clear it, AFTER making sure the carb body is tight and intake isn't loose/sucking air.
   That hose going below would be to the tcase for E-drive which some '80s had. It locked the tcase so front and rear axles turned the same speed. The heater controls are also vacuum so there should be a vacuum ball for that. Yours may have the early idle speed control box near the heater under the hood hinge (I removed mine). If you have a catalytic converter, you need to remove it or gut it without the AIR pump or your floor may catch fire. When the cat falls apart on it's own (usually preceded by popcorn sounds from the exhaust) it often blocks the muffler and turns into a cork, suddenly dropping power (mine did that to the previous owner. The 998 snapping the converter and dropping out all fluids on his way to work was the last straw). After removal of the cat and cleaning the muffler (shop vac before putting the new pipe on), it now has plenty of power.

On the AIR pipe (hose behind the carb) you can get a 3/4" rubber pipe cap (I think they use them here for heater lines. They are on the HELP! rack in most parts stores) and clamp it off for now.
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Offline carnuck

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2014, 11:25:51 AM »
I ran a roadtube on my 4.0L, but now run it through a cannister with a bottom plug to drain it now and then. I also run Napa synthetic 15W50 oil to cut the blowby and oil consumption. (works great!) Since it's not a "real" synthetic, I don't have the leaking issues and it protects a bit more than Delo 15W40 but doesn't have the diesel additives. It still "feels" like it has zinc.
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Offline HornetRWB

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2014, 12:46:19 PM »
Thanks for the reply, so much stuff I gotta dissect it a bit to get it all cleared.

You want the PCV hooked up (it was in the front hole on the valve cover and goes to the back of the carb.) The carb was set up to run with this "vacuum leak".

Ok, so that hose (it was loose) goes into the same size hole in the back of the carb (which was plugged by PO). I'll get that connected.

Quote
The charcoal cannister hooks to the 2 large hoses on the top front of the carb. That just catches fuel vapors from the tank and puts them down the carb on start up so you don't smell raw fumes.

The cannister isn't going back ;) Those hoses are blocked.

Quote
I'm not a fan of EGR valves but unless you deal with the ping by retarding timing or going a colder range of sparkplug (I run NGK BKR6EK which are same as VW uses) or replace the timing chain/gears with a roller set from a '91 up 4.0L (retarding the cam cures ping). Especially if you do the head swap, which is mainly done to get rid of the plastic valve cover you don't have.

You lost me, what's cold sparkplugs have to do with smog on a '80 Eagle? I have the vacuum for the distributor connected, is that what you mean?

Quote
Speaking of the carb, grab it and see if it's at all twist-able. If yes, then the lack of idle is because of the vacuum leak in the mid body and/or clogged idle tubes (I cross #1 and #6 wires and make the motor backfire to clear it, AFTER making sure the carb body is tight and intake isn't loose/sucking air.

Will give it a twist and the intake a shout, before trying your tip on #1/#6 wires (or just taking out the idle tubes and piano wiring them).

Quote
That hose going below would be to the tcase for E-drive which some '80s had. It locked the tcase so front and rear axles turned the same speed.

Ok, so where should this connect, it was already loose. To the carb or the intake or neither?

Quote
The heater controls are also vacuum so there should be a vacuum ball for that.

vacuum ball? haven't seen one, except the cruise control. I'm guessing this is something that should be connected to the same outlet as the cruise on the rear of the intake manifold?

Quote
Yours may have the early idle speed control box near the heater under the hood hinge (I removed mine).

I'll check it out.

Quote
If you have a catalytic converter, you need to remove it or gut it without the AIR pump or your floor may catch fire. When the cat falls apart on it's own (usually preceded by popcorn sounds from the exhaust) it often blocks the muffler and turns into a cork, suddenly dropping power (mine did that to the previous owner. The 998 snapping the converter and dropping out all fluids on his way to work was the last straw). After removal of the cat and cleaning the muffler (shop vac before putting the new pipe on), it now has plenty of power.

No catalysator, and will not put one in.

Quote
On the AIR pipe (hose behind the carb) you can get a 3/4" rubber pipe cap (I think they use them here for heater lines. They are on the HELP! rack in most parts stores) and clamp it off for now.

AIR pipe, that the one that comes from the exhaust manifold? If so, it's blocked already (bolt clamped to a short hose) and i'll remove it totally - looks better without it and I am redoing the entire engine bay and painting the engine, etc. after I get it running correctly.

Thanks again mate!

PS. I plan to run the engine with Valvoline MaxLife 15W50 (semisynthetic for high milage engines), I've had good experiences with it on my 242cid and 258cid engines in the past.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2014, 12:51:42 PM by HornetRWB »
^
cRazy Finnish AMCer...
- AMC Eagle Sport STW 1980 258cid+TF998 Silver
- AMC Hornet SST 2D 1970 343cid+T10 Red-White-Blue
- AMC Rebel SST 2D HT 1969 360cid+TF727 Midnight blue
- Jeep Cherokee Limited XJ 4.0L+autom Black
www.amccf.com

Offline carnuck

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2014, 02:03:41 PM »
Thanks for the reply, so much stuff I gotta dissect it a bit to get it all cleared.

You want the PCV hooked up (it was in the front hole on the valve cover and goes to the back of the carb.) The carb was set up to run with this "vacuum leak".

Quote
Ok, so that hose (it was loose) goes into the same size hole in the back of the carb (which was plugged by PO). I'll get that connected.

[quote carnuck]The charcoal cannister hooks to the 2 large hoses on the top front of the carb. That just catches fuel vapors from the tank and puts them down the carb on start up so you don't smell raw fumes. [/quote]

Quote
The cannister isn't going back ;) Those hoses are blocked.

Well, if you like the smell of raw gas... ;) You will need to vent the fuel tank or it will either pressurize and force excess fuel in the carb (poor economy) or cause fuel to spray out when the cap is removed.


[quote carnuck]I'm not a fan of EGR valves but unless you deal with the ping by retarding timing or going a colder range of sparkplug (I run NGK BKR6EK which are same as VW uses) or replace the timing chain/gears with a roller set from a '91 up 4.0L (retarding the cam cures ping). Especially if you do the head swap, which is mainly done to get rid of the plastic valve cover you don't have.[/quote]

Quote
You lost me, what's cold sparkplugs have to do with smog on a '80 Eagle? I have the vacuum for the distributor connected, is that what you mean?

The colder range plugs cut Ping, which is a common problem on the late '70s/early 80s 6 cyls. It's the reason the very next year after yours they added a knock sensor which controlled the timing and the carb. I also would add a GM HEI dist (search Ebay for Skip White to see one. GM inline 6 cyls are probably rare where you are) By going a colder plug, I was able to advance my timing more without ping or miss and I have a fair bit of power.

[quote carnuck]Speaking of the carb, grab it and see if it's at all twist-able. If yes, then the lack of idle is because of the vacuum leak in the mid body and/or clogged idle tubes (I cross #1 and #6 wires and make the motor backfire to clear it, AFTER making sure the carb body is tight and intake isn't loose/sucking air.[/quote]

Quote
Will give it a twist and the intake a shout, before trying your tip on #1/#6 wires (or just taking out the idle tubes and piano wiring them).

I recall the earlier tubes being larger diameter ID than the compu-carb version and less likely to clog.

[quote carnuck] That hose going below would be to the tcase for E-drive which some '80s had. It locked the tcase so front and rear axles turned the same speed. [/quote]


Quote
Ok, so where should this connect, it was already loose. To the carb or the intake or neither?

I thought it was already hooked to intake? Are you talking about the large diameter hose? That's the AIR system inlet.
Pics of mine: http://s6.photobucket.com/user/carnuck/library/AMC%20Eagle?sort=3&page=2
I have AC and kept the vapor cannister but dumped the AIR pump. (had to realign the belts slightly but I plan serpentine belt later.

[quote carnuck]The heater controls are also vacuum so there should be a vacuum ball for that. [/quote]

Quote
vacuum ball? haven't seen one, except the cruise control. I'm guessing this is something that should be connected to the same outlet as the cruise on the rear of the intake manifold?

[quote carnuck]Yours may have the early idle speed control box near the heater under the hood hinge (I removed mine). [/quote]

Quote
I'll check it out.

[quote carnuck]If you have a catalytic converter, you need to remove it or gut it without the AIR pump or your floor may catch fire. When the cat falls apart on it's own (usually preceded by popcorn sounds from the exhaust) it often blocks the muffler and turns into a cork, suddenly dropping power (mine did that to the previous owner. The 998 snapping the converter and dropping out all fluids on his way to work was the last straw). After removal of the cat and cleaning the muffler (shop vac before putting the new pipe on), it now has plenty of power.[/quote]

Quote
No catalysator, and will not put one in.

Me either till I go EFI.

[quote carnuck]On the AIR pipe (hose behind the carb) you can get a 3/4" rubber pipe cap (I think they use them here for heater lines. They are on the HELP! rack in most parts stores) and clamp it off for now. [/quote]


Quote
AIR pipe, that the one that comes from the exhaust manifold? If so, it's blocked already (bolt clamped to a short hose) and i'll remove it totally - looks better without it and I am redoing the entire engine bay and painting the engine, etc. after I get it running correctly.

Thanks again mate!

PS. I plan to run the engine with Valvoline MaxLife 15W50 (semisynthetic for high milage engines), I've had good experiences with it on my 242cid and 258cid engines in the past.

Napa branded oil is made by Valvoline, so good choice!
« Last Edit: September 23, 2014, 02:06:09 PM by carnuck »
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline eaglebeek

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2014, 11:11:50 PM »
Thanks for all the feedback, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.  :occasion14: ;D
Ye, that's part of the taxi setup, it's a huge speedo with one of those 'draw a paper disc while driving' kind of things (no clue what they're called, I've seen a few on old 18 wheelers way back), propably the car had two drivers and they ran different log discs to keep books. There's also at least 12 'do not smoke' stickers and the seats have a few ash burns.. I guess the Swiss aren't that good at following rules..  :police:
The truckers on this side of the pond called those big round speed recorders "tachographs". They were made by a company called "Sangamo". They etched speed recordings on a round paper chart. The chart was rotated past the stylus by a wind-up clock.

That thing is a classic. I haven't seen one in at least 40 years, and I'm still in the business. Today trucks are equipped with all manner of electronic recording devices, some of which can produce a printout on demand from the driver while he or she is in the driver's seat. :eagle:
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Air-conditioning is so cool!

Offline HornetRWB

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #12 on: September 25, 2014, 03:45:39 PM »
Took the carb off and it's pretty much gone (main axle has play sideways), so I decided to get a new one. Instead of the Carter due to reading about it here and a couple mates recommendations I'm going to a new Motorcraft 2150 and I found a seller with a complete kit on Ebay with fitment ready for an Eagle. It really does sound very good, is there anyone here who's running with it? :)
^
cRazy Finnish AMCer...
- AMC Eagle Sport STW 1980 258cid+TF998 Silver
- AMC Hornet SST 2D 1970 343cid+T10 Red-White-Blue
- AMC Rebel SST 2D HT 1969 360cid+TF727 Midnight blue
- Jeep Cherokee Limited XJ 4.0L+autom Black
www.amccf.com

Offline carnuck

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #13 on: September 25, 2014, 03:56:34 PM »
Gronk? He sells quite a few of those. I want to get the Mexican 2100 2bbl intake for mine but I'll settle for EFI instead and go liquid propane injection later.
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Offline IowaEagle

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Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 Silver (from Finland)
« Reply #14 on: September 25, 2014, 04:33:29 PM »
Gronk stands behind his work.  Make sure you mention you are overseas.
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