AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Mighty 258 => Fuel Systems. => Topic started by: brownbear on October 12, 2011, 06:49:48 PM
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has anyone come up with or found a way to hook up an aftermarket aire intake?
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Why? The factory air intake setup is more "cold air" than almost any of those things people put on their rice burners. A cone air filter inside the engine bay is nowhere near cold air, and to put it behind the front bumper like the true cold air intakes are, you're just sucking in more dirt and putting yourself at risk when you drive through standing water.
I had $200+ AEM cold air intake on my Probe GTS. I got tired of playing games with it, there was no noticable gain anywhere except in noise, and it was just a hassle trying to keep the filter clean and no matter what, the aluminum tubes always found something to vibrate against. I put the stock, properly designed intake back on the car and the aftermarket intake sits in a box somewhere. The only thing I miss is the cool sound it made.
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get a fleebay kit for a 2001 dodge ram with the 5.2 liter that uses a stud and wing nut rather than the factory clamp style.
My 2 cents about it is your not going to see any improvement over a K&N open element filter
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I have the new 2150 upgrade with the 6 inch round filter and it just seems like all it is doing is sucking in all the heat from the motor and manifold, no circulation. I thought if I could run it toward the factory cold air return that it might be helpful.
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You could get the kit like thereverendbill just noted, you probably get better flow that way, the only problem there is finding a place to mount a cone air filter that's not in the way of something or subjected to excessive road dirt, protected from the elements, and still pulling cool air.
If you have the resources, the original air cleaner can be modified to work with the motorcraft carb with a little cutting and welding. Or you can pick up the air cleaner housing from an old ford that is offset to allow enough clearance to the master cylinder, then duct it to the front of the car just like the factory setup.
I think I like the third option the best, it'll give you cool air while protecting the filter from the elements, and it also maintains a factory appearance in case you're subject to a visual emissions inspection. If the inspector sees an aftermarket intake going to a bright shiny carb, they're more likely to take a closer look at the emissions equipment and find out it's not attached or completely missing.
I'm only pointing you away from the aftermarket type setup because of my own experience with them, it was just a bigger hassle than it was worth. If you think you have a way to make it work go for it and show us what you did, it's always interesting to see new approaches to solve a problem.
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Not to hi-jack this thread... but
I think brownbear is on the same path I'm on. I also have the 2150 carb, and if it's warm out my car pings like crazy. (because the person who took out all my pollution gear killed my EGR)
I can't find any other reason for the pinging issue. I've pretty much tried everything else.
Not to go with those 'rice burner' K&N huge filters, I think (and correct me if I'm wrong here Brownbear) we were thinking some kind of factory 'frying pan' type filter very similar to what we've taken off the car.
That will fit.
one with the heat riser, and the snorkel to draw cold air directly from outside. where the air filter fits inside the 'frying pan.
There must be some older ford, gm, or whatever that would fit over the new carb, (whatever the diameter) and not hit the brake booster, and do what we want.
Anyone know, or are we gonna have to spend time at the auto wreckers?
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I think the ford cars that came with the motorcraft carbs have the air cleaner housing that's offset, which is what you need. It's somewhere in gronk's original motorcraft swap thread. It doesn't list specifically which ones work, but it seems like most of the ones that came on the late 60's to 80's fords work.
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I can't find any other reason for the pinging issue. I've pretty much tried everything else.
If its pinging on acceleration when the pedal is completely floored, the EGR Valve will NOT help, as its inactive under full acceleration. If its pinging while lightly cruising/light acceleration, it could help.
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Nope, it only pings under hard acceleration only - Unless it's really hot out, then it practically pings no matter how gentle you are.
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hard to believe we are the only 2 guys with pinging issues and none of the other hundreds of eagle owners have any ideas why??????
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For me, it's between the line on the 'C' and the green section. about lower middle.
Now, on a hot day, it will be closer to the green, but still not into the green yet (am I making sense??) and it will be pinging.
On cold days, she doesn't ping at all- Unless it's warmed up, and I'm climbing a hill, it might ping a bit.
Maybe I should put some fuel system cleaner thru her.
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MIne " pings" but I don't have the carb conversion to be a legitimate compare.I run super in it all the time and it helps a heck of a lot.Still looking into the cold air thing though.I have a stock air cleaner on it, but no snorkel hose.As an X sheetmetal worker I am sure I could come up with something.
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my temp gauge is never higher than dead center, no matter the temp outside. Thats why I asked if a lower temp thermostat might help keep the engine cooler. 195 degree seems pretty hot, and now without any computer or emissions I would think it would be safe to go to a lower temp. My truck went from a 195 to a 160 cuz of the super chips I have in it. They said it would help with spark knock. I have never worked under a hood that was soo hot, you needed to wait to work on the motor. It seems to take hrs. before you can touch anything without being burnt. Don't know if there is a cowl type of hood out there for the eagles to keep them cooler?
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x2 on that , there is so much heat trapped under there.I also have never had that much. Even my amx with uncoated headers doesn't get that hot.
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My carbed stroker and all others never get that hot. To have a super hot cannot work condition.
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Most cars have 180-195 thermostats to make sure that the condensation and fuel wash in the oil has enough heat to evaporate and be drawn out by the PCV system, as well as the tolerances are calculated for an engine running 195-210. If you run cooler then you risk more engine wear, your engine effectively never warms up to operating temperature.
195 is in the lower third of the green a properly calibrated stock gauge, and the H is above 250, if I recall correctly. Every car I've owned, from the 68 Tempest through the 02 Jetta has 195 as its ideal operating temperature, according to the TSMs.
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Well unless my temp gauge is shot, my temp sits between the 'C' and the bottom of the green. So it's pretty low.
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both spirits had 258s, and never got into the green, and ran great year round. well, one time my cardboard left the grille and hit the rad in the winter, and it got like halfwayish. but thats it, and it wasnt overheating when that happened. never had pinging, even with the advance not working on one car, and also note, im only an hour away from you jared.
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Well unless my temp gauge is shot, my temp sits between the 'C' and the bottom of the green. So it's pretty low.
the one i have in Eagle Eyes just barely hits the bottom of the green line even in 100+ weather.