AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Mighty 258 => Exhaust System. => Topic started by: TEagle85 on March 04, 2016, 07:29:13 PM
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Had to pull my manifold out to get the exhaust off for a trans swap. Bolts to the exhaust flange were rusted on so had to cut. Soooo I have a new one coming. Question is do I need this connection from the intake to exhaust manifold? Ive done the bypass if its related to that. Can I plug both? Is there a replacement to buy somewhere? Can I make a new one kind of like brake lines but bigger assuming they sell that diameter metal tubing?
The fittings are pretty rusted on so Id rather just cut it off. Thanks.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1441/25390378542_69a4f91436_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EFEjXh)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/EFEjXh) by T A (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kadar5551/), on Flickr
also can I pull this red wire out assuming its connected to the computer? I pulled the computer is not even in the car anymore.
If I can Ill make a metal plate and gasket to cover kinda like that ERG cover.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1505/25416077211_ac589dacea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EHW3gM)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/EHW3gM) by T A (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kadar5551/), on Flickr
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I'm not sure about this, but I believe that tube allowed exhaust gas to flow from exhaust to the intake when the EGR valve was open. Since you don't have the EGR valve any more, and if the tube is open, then exhaust gas may be flowing to the intake all the time. You probably don't need the tube any longer., but you would need to make sure the connection points in the intake and exhaust are plugged.
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Yeah I have all kinds of holes to plug on the intake and exhaust manifold, that may be another two. All kinds of neglected sensors all over the place on there
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What's another couple holes to plug? ;)
I did the 4.0 head swap on my Kammback, utilizing the original intake and a 4.0 header style exhaust manifold. There is no place for the tube to connect to the exhaust so we just plugged the connection point in the intake.
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And that red wire is the EFE heater (EFE = Early Fuel Evaporation). It heats the fuel/air charge when the engine is cold to improve cold-weather drivability. I personally like having the EFE; but the only drawback of not having it is cold drivability. Its not hooked to the computer in any way.
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hi, that pipe you are pointing to is the EGR pipe, and believe it or not, is still available new, NEW, from Mopar. it's not cheap though, about $40.. I just bought one a couple of months ago. If thats the original pipe, you will NOT get it out with just a wrench. the manifolds need to come out of the car, and the pipe threads need to be heated Cherry red with a torch, then sprayed with cold water, "thermal shock", and then they MAY loosen up and can be taken out. before you do this, be aware that it is a fairly hard to find thread pitch, so a plug is not easy to find at your local hardware store. I believe it's a Metric thread, not impossible to find, but not easy either. Unless you are pulling the manifolds, I humbly suggest you leave it alone. It is a BEAR to remove. I have the part # somewhere, if you want a new one I can dig it up, just not right now. Having said all that, you know that the EGR valve doesn't hamper performance, and is actually a good thing to have, and helps clean up emissions, you may consider putting one back in, so the system works as designed. The red wire is the preheater, also nice to have. Runs off the oil pressure switch through a relay.. good luck, gz
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Thumbs up awarded to amcfool1 for a thoughtful, useful response that makes a good case for doing the right thing environmentally, without any preaching. Always good to see that on the 'board.
JB
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Thanks amcfol1! Both manifolds are already out and the exhaust manifold needs to be replaced.
Id like that part number if you have it. My ERG valve is long gone and if it needs a maze of vacuum tubing or a computer to work all of that is long gone as well. Ill have to look into restoring that function. Maybe that tube could help for now until I get a new valve.
At least at this point I will cut the tube and I will only have to focus on getting the intake manifold fitting out. I see the new exhaust manifold coming in the mail has it already plugged.
Definitely want to keep the preheater so thanks for identifying that guys!
At this point the car is a toy that sits in the garage 95% of the time. I haven't owned a car in ten years and ride a bicycle everyday rain or shine, snow or sleet here in Chicago. I use that as an excuse for some wiggle room with my transportation carbon footprint ;). This car has been a fun project allowing me to expand my mechanical abilities after being a bicycle mechanic for the last 8 years. At this point Im pretty sure I could build a bike blindfolded so Im enjoying these challenges this Eagle has thrown my way.
Thanks again guys!
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Found one.
Stock Code J3241722 ; J3237776
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/TUBE--EGR/6862597/J3241722.html
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hey, glad you found it, and, did better than me, I paid list price at my local Mopar dealer! You don't need the computer to run EGR, just a CTO (Coolant temperature Overide) switch, which I see you already have, about two inches west of your finger, uh huh, that way. One port to the EGR, and the other to carb vac. not sure which right now, but easy to look up in any vac diagram. BTW, we used to live in Yorkville, IL, about 50 miles southwest of Chicago, and our 82 Eagle sedan was absolutely the right car for those winter storms, NEVER got stuck. good luck, gz
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My pipe on my Eagle doesn't even exist! WTF?! Mines an 87. and it has an egr. Another mystery from a previous owner, the marv LeRoy from WI. Oh boy
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If you remove the EGR you will see two holes under it. The tube just allows exhaust gas to flow from the exhaust manifold to the lower hole under the EGR. The EGR, when activated, allows a metered amount of that gas to flow to the upper hole, into the intake. The EGR is closed in it's resting position, so by blocking it off, you've sealed it for good. If you remove the tube, you should only need to seal up the threaded hole on the exhaust manifold. I kept the valve on mine to help with emissions. Unless it has a problem (stuck open, metering orifice incorrect allowing too much exhaust flow), it shouldn't affect performance.
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If you remove the EGR you will see two holes under it. The tube just allows exhaust gas to flow from the exhaust manifold to the lower hole under the EGR. The EGR, when activated, allows a metered amount of that gas to flow to the upper hole, into the intake. The EGR is closed in it's resting position, so by blocking it off, you've sealed it for good. If you remove the tube, you should only need to seal up the threaded hole on the exhaust manifold. I kept the valve on mine to help with emissions. Unless it has a problem (stuck open, metering orifice incorrect allowing too much exhaust flow), it shouldn't affect performance.
Cool to know. Thank you!
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I ended up blocking off the erg tube and valve for now. I'll work on getting that function back another day since I have so many other things to tackle. Motor and trans rebuild included. You can see more in the project thread.
The intake manifold heater just looks to be some positive(?) springs that lead to a few conductive discs which short the circuit causing it to heat up??? Looks like that to me. Just one wire in. Does the aluminum intake ground it somehow? Anyway one of the discs broke and the part is nowhere.
Anyone have any specs or ideas on what temperature this thing heated up to?
What I'm going to do is bail on the old stuff and put in a new heating element.
Got this coming in from eBay.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=161945313690
Basically a small heating element that heats up to 70c on 12v DC.
Instead of trying to tie the electronics into the system I'm going to make a Manual switch next to all my others inside the car. Flick it on when the car is in the start position, warm, then start, drive and turn off when engine is at temp. Won't do this in the summer but for sure in the winter.
Will that temp rating be enough you think?
Close to operating temp. The other option is 200c and I think that's waaaay too hot for gas to be hitting.
PS also had to refab the metal plate on the bottom since the old one was all rusted out.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/26744442901_3bfe7a25ba_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GKjg7v)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GKjg7v) by T A (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kadar5551/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/26718125292_acfcc38dd5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GGZnNC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/GGZnNC) by T A (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kadar5551/), on Flickr
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also thought this was interesting.
found this new preheater for a VW. looks identical except for the half moon cut out which would be easy to do. Not spending $75 on that though. Ill stick with my $5 fix.
VW Intake Manifold Pre Heater 026-129-893 New NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361548572101?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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that makes sense, if you look closely under the rust, or in the "fins" you will find that your original part is actually of VW/Audi manufacture. good luck, gz
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Thanks, just looking for at least one blessing before I start making my own preheater. Concept seems simple enough. I'll keep it updated though this topic just shifting to the intake manifold.