The Shop > Gremlins

No crank - battery good

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Still Pat:
See, now y'all thinking like me. Those are the kinda ideas I was having, but I didn't say anything because I didn't KNOW! I wanted THEM to diagnose & fix the problem. Last time, I guessed & threw a couple parts at, figuring they were nearly 40 years old. Rather than the hassle of actually finding what was wrong, I'd just throw a couple little parts at it. Got it back, seemed fixed till this time. So I decided, well I got my guvmint money, I can afford to have a shop find out WHAT IS wrong & get it fixed. Then they don't find anything, no charge (which is nice, but still ...). Tends to leave me feeling lost & confused (more so than usual). Only thing I know is "Run it till it breaks". Just keep on keeping on until it happens again.

Illeagle1984:
It can be just as frustrating for us mechanics when the car comes in and it works just fine a hundred tries in a row.  Next time it happens, you may consider doing a bit of diagnostics yourself to narrow down the possibilities.  All you need is a cheap test light; you can even make one out of a 194 bulb and a couple lengths of wire.  The resistance in the bulb will keep you from accidentally shorting anything out, and will give you a basic idea if you have power at a given terminal or not.  If it doesn't start, check the small S wire on the solenoid, light blue with tracer I believe.  Just put one wire to the terminal, one to the nearby battery ground, and have someone try to crank it while you watch the bulb.  That will tell you if the problem is upstream (possibly ignition switch, NSS, etc) or in the starter circuit (I've had several new starter solenoids that intermittently stay on or not work).  Before you try to jump/bypass the solenoid, just make completely sure it's in park/neutral and any helper has a foot on the brake...if it's in gear and fires up, it will want to start rolling!

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