ECM Test Bypass Help

[carnuck]

Here's the link to my old page (IIRC by Terry Howe)

http://www.oocities.org/eaglemania2002/bypass.html

[Prafeston]

Well I made a little video last night of how it's wired up. Figure it might help someone else some day.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDii9tOKHC4

If I did something wrong let me know!

Also I thought it was doing pretty good yesterday, but now it's back to the same old thing it was doing before. It's taking like 10 seconds or so with the key in the start position before it finally starts up. Also yesterday it was idling fine...almost too low and now today it's back to idling really high and when I put it in park it starts revving up. I still need to do the timing I believe. Gonna purchase one online. Autozone has one for 40 and a digital one for like 99, but I'd rather pay like 15-20 for one online.

[68AMXGOPAC]

I've had the cheap ones, but last year bought a nice digital one that also reads rpm on the screen directly.It can also be used on 6V systems , wich was a big plus when Dialing in an old 52 Molines I was setting up , and a 50 GMC I have in the shop.
If you only use it occasionally, then what your looking at will probably be good enough.Good Luck Master Chief.

[eagle503]

I found this to be helpfull
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
And correct me if I am wrong but I dont think it matters what side of the plug you put the orange wire on.
So if this mod removes the MCU from the loop will this effect sport models with tachometer?

[Prafeston]

And correct me if I am wrong but I dont think it matters what side of the plug you put the orange wire on.

When I had the orange going to the orange before the plug the car would not start. Once I moved it to the Light green wire on the other side of the plug it started right up.

[ammachine390]

So if this mod removes the MCU from the loop will this effect sport models with tachometer?

Nope, tach is wired directly to negative side of ignition coil, no ECM input at all.

[rollguy]

I would like to do this one day with not cutting any wires.  My plan is to go to the wrecking yard and get some plugs and connectors off of an Eagle, and make a harness that just plugs in.   I am in CA, and an emissions test is done every other year.   I need to have everything made reversible for when test time comes.  Maybe a kit could be made that just plugs in and does the bypass without cutting any of the stock wiring?    How about it all you automotive electrical engineers? What do you think?

[Prafeston]

I would like to do this one day with not cutting any wires.  My plan is to go to the wrecking yard and get some plugs and connectors off of an Eagle, and make a harness that just plugs in.

That sure would be nice!

[eagle503]

And correct me if I am wrong but I dont think it matters what side of the plug you put the orange wire on.

When I had the orange going to the orange before the plug the car would not start. Once I moved it to the Light green wire on the other side of the plug it started right up.

when you had it on the "wrong side" was it connected to both the plug and icm or just the icm ?
The purple wire is connected "T" style . Did you have the orange hooked up the same? that could have been the problem. The Light green wire needs to be removed from the circuit correct? If you simply tap into it "T" style the distributor would be getting two different spark signals.

[mudkicker715]

I would like to do this one day with not cutting any wires.  My plan is to go to the wrecking yard and get some plugs and connectors off of an Eagle, and make a harness that just plugs in.   I am in CA, and an emissions test is done every other year.   I need to have everything made reversible for when test time comes.  Maybe a kit could be made that just plugs in and does the bypass without cutting any of the stock wiring?    How about it all you automotive electrical engineers? What do you think?

or simply get solderless connectors and make your own harness. i did when it mattered for some reason

[Prafeston]

when you had it on the "wrong side" was it connected to both the plug and icm or just the icm ?
The purple wire is connected "T" style . Did you have the orange hooked up the same? that could have been the problem. The Light green wire needs to be removed from the circuit correct? If you simply tap into it "T" style the distributor would be getting two different spark signals.

I think I understand what you mean, and I did T connect them so that could have been my problem. I guess I should have just connected straight into the orange wire going into ICM, this could have solved my problem.

[eagle503]

when you had it on the "wrong side" was it connected to both the plug and icm or just the icm ?
The purple wire is connected "T" style . Did you have the orange hooked up the same? that could have been the problem. The Light green wire needs to be removed from the circuit correct? If you simply tap into it "T" style the distributor would be getting two different spark signals.

I think I understand what you mean, and I did T connect them so that could have been my problem. I guess I should have just connected straight into the orange wire going into ICM, this could have solved my problem.

The reason I was curios is that I bypassed the plug with both wires and had no problem. There is not much you can do to mess this up and really the only thing i can think of is leaving the light green hooked up to the mcu.

[Prafeston]

Well it makes sense what you are saying. I guess had I just done orange to orange before the plug and not done a 3 way T connection and just gone orange from distributor to orange going into the ICM then it should have worked. Oh well. The only reason I see for doing it on the other side of the plug is you have more wire to work with when you are having to do your splicing. The limited amount of wire and space between the ICM and the plug made it kind of hard to splice in there.

[carnuck]

For the non-cutting way of doing this, find an '80/'81 and get the whole underhood harness from a non-electronic BBD model. I wonder if the CARB certified TBI Holley projection would work on the Eagles as well as it did on the CJs?

On the hard starting:
In this pic the 2 small wires on the solenoid are marked "I" for ignition and "S" for start. Hook a voltmeter to the "I" terminal. With the key on, voltage will be the same as at the coil (about 9VDC) When you turn the key to start, the voltage should pop up to 12VDC or whatever the battery voltage is during cranking. If it doesn't, the voltage will drop, which makes the coil's voltage spike drop and plugs don't get enough secondary winding voltage right away to clear off and run.


If the power doesn't spike up, the contact inside the solenoid is worn off.

[rollguy]

I would like to do this one day with not cutting any wires.  My plan is to go to the wrecking yard and get some plugs and connectors off of an Eagle, and make a harness that just plugs in.   I am in CA, and an emissions test is done every other year.   I need to have everything made reversible for when test time comes.  Maybe a kit could be made that just plugs in and does the bypass without cutting any of the stock wiring?    How about it all you automotive electrical engineers? What do you think?

I figured it out, and it was EASY!
I started a new topic:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=38916.0