News: Putting FUN and FRIENDLINESS, FIRST into owning and learning about AMC small bodied cars, primarily Eagles, Spirits and Concords as well as vehicles built in AMC's Mexican subsidiary, VAM.

The AMC Eaglepedia can now be accessed using the buttons found below  This is a comprehensive ever growing archive of information, tips, diagrams, manuals, etc. for the AMC Eagle and other small bodied AMC cars. 

Also a button is now available for our Face Book Group page.


Welcome to the AMC Eagles Nest.  A new site under "old" management -- so welcome to your new home for everything related to AMC Eagles, Spirits and Concords along with opportunities to interact with other AMC'ers.  This site will soon be evolving to look different than it has and we will be incorporating new features we hope you will find useful, entertaining and expand your AMC horizons.

You can now promote your topics at your favorite social media site by clicking on the appropriate icon (top upper right of the page) while viewing the topic you wish to promote.


  • March 28, 2024, 06:24:40 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: Cooling Fan Clutch question  (Read 3828 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline djvanyel

  • RAWK Star
  • Eagle
  • **
  • Posts: 92
  • Thumbs Up 7
Cooling Fan Clutch question
« on: February 18, 2014, 12:44:57 AM »
I didn't see this answered anywhere else, so thought I'd post this to the group for those who might have come across this quandary:

I was doing some preemptive research into a new water pump for my '87/'83 (just in case) and noticed pretty much everyone recommends replacing the fan clutch at the same time.  I think I've narrowed down the proper water pump type (although I'm not decided on a good replacement brand), but there appears to be more than one type of fan clutch listed.  They appear to be either:
-Non-thermal (CW/CCW)
-Thermal (CCW)

My instinct says a thermal clutch is correct, and from the engine's/driver's perspective, the rotation is CCW but, as is often the case with obtaining parts, I'm not 100% sure.

Anyone know what the applications of the two types are? 
'94 Crown Vic P71 (my baby) [permanently out to pasture :'( ]
'96 Crown Vic P71 (the new beast) [the primary driver]
'83 Eagle Sport Wagon [almost flying again]
'87 Eagle Sedan [running!]
'80 Honda Accord HB (aka Boing Boing) [the little one]

Offline T5258

  • Eagle Limited
  • *****
  • Posts: 648
  • Thumbs Up 14
Re: Cooling Fan Clutch question
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2014, 05:33:27 PM »
using the 84 manual for reference, the serp belt equipped 4.2's have a reverse rotating water pump & fan clutch....as far as the clutch type, the only description given is that it is a Tempatrol drive, which is viscous, so I'd agree with you & run with a thermal type.....
1987 Eagle Limited
1985 Corvette
2009 Avalanche LT
2011 Volvo C30

remember:  no matter where you go.......there you are

Offline vangremlin

  • Administrator
  • AMC Eagles Den Addicted
  • ******
  • Posts: 4411
  • Thumbs Up 212
Re: Cooling Fan Clutch question
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2014, 11:52:57 PM »
I am looking at a new fan clutch myself, and came across the following information from the Hayden website

http://www.haydenauto.com/featured%20products-fan%20clutches%20and%20fan%20blades/content.aspx

1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
1964 TBird 390 - sold

Offline BenM

  • AMC Eagles Den Addicted
  • ********
  • Posts: 1512
  • Thumbs Up 74
  • Pittsburgh, PA
Re: Cooling Fan Clutch question
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2014, 11:07:06 AM »
Standard should be CW, reverse should be CCW, looking at the front of the engine. I guess it would depend on how the manufacturer defines CW and CCW.

Heavy duty cooling got the thermal clutch along with the three-row radiator.

Replacing the clutch is good advice, if it's worn out the vibrations will wear out the pump faster, usually one causes the other to wear out as it goes.

Before you install a new pump adjust the clearance on the impeller. It should be less than .030 without rubbing. If the impeller is too far away from the casting it's efficiency drops drastically.
NSS#47184

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

 

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk