The Shop > Project Cars
1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 "Silver Beast" (from Finland)
HornetRWB:
Thanks for all the feedback, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. :occasion14: ;D
--- Quote from: AMC of Houston on September 21, 2014, 05:42:22 PM ---Try denatured alcohol on your tree sap spots -- you'll be surprised how well it takes out those brown sap spots.
--- End quote ---
I hate to waste alcohol, but I guess the Eagle deserves a drink too, even if it's denatured... So I gotta give that a try. ;) I wonder though if alcohol would also get that droooping headliner fixed, I do have a bottle of good single malt which I may drink in the car next weekend.. Just to give that a try too...
--- Quote from: eaglefreek on September 21, 2014, 06:38:11 PM ---Welcome, nice looking bird and interesting history. What is that big round gauge on the passenger side? Taxi meter? Rockauto.com is a good source for parts, but not sure if they ship to Europe.
--- End quote ---
Ye, that's part of the taxi setup, it's a huge speedo with one of those 'draw a paper disc while driving' kind of things (no clue what they're called, I've seen a few on old 18 wheelers way back), propably the car had two drivers and they ran different log discs to keep books. There's also at least 12 'do not smoke' stickers and the seats have a few ash burns.. I guess the Swiss aren't that good at following rules.. :police:
Rockauto works for us Finns to, they ship but bad thing about them is their million different warehouses - so if you put in an order it may be shipped from several places and then the taxman gets funny. :P Oh well, still worth it.
And as to the project, both front doorhandles are broken - but I've got plently of Hornet parts so I'm guessing those fit well from Hornet. Also most of the locks are busted (or working poorly) so I'll likely just get new ones as a mate already pointed out they're very cheap. Trunklid also isn't opening due to the fact that the key doesn't work, I'll have to jimmy that open or just take out some plastics from the trunk and get the thing open from the inside. Pics upcoming as I get around to actuall doing something (else than planning about doing something).. >:D
HornetRWB:
So this was my engine room and smog equipment when purchased:
Some of the hoses were plugged and others just left disconnected, no wonder it ran poorly and just barely started up. Also no idle.
Since Finnish EPA doesn't give a :censored: about old classic cars, as long as we pass Finnish inspection limits of the manufacturing year (which I know from prior experience the 258cid will if it's running correctly). I decided to delete the smog equipment totally.
First took out all the hoses and then the equipment itself one by one. Then plugged in the extra holes in the carb, connected the cruise control (to the intake vacuum in the back) and brake booster (to the intake vacuum on the middle). Also noticed the distributor vacuum was disconnected before I even started so I plugged that into the lower carb body vacuum connection on the front right. Please let me know if I put something in the wrong place.
Then I continued to plug in all those crankshaft vacuum holes (2 in front, 3 in back) and the extra vacuum from the back of the intake and the valve on the side of the intake. I also plugged up the exhaust rail on the top by the back of the carb - I'll remove that completely later this week. There was also a plugged in bigger vacuum connection on the back of the carb so I left that as is. Question however is that I found a vacuum hose going down likely into the transmission/distribution box, this wasn't connected to anywhere, should it be?
Then I plugged the breather on the front of the valve cover and since the rear breather was already connected by a Y-connector to the air filter box AND a line that runs down the engine's side to the ground - I left that 'as-is'. Likely I'll connect that to a breathing catch bottle (like I did on my previous Wrangler 4.7 stroker) and save some air filters in the progress.
Then I just did a base adjustment to the mixture screws (they were open ~3 and ~2.5 turns, they're now both open 2 turns) and started the engine up. It fired immediately and ran nicely. Although after a few seconds the idle was still gone, so I assume the problem is likely inside the carb (I'm guessing there's an idle circuit there that's blocked?). If I can't get this carb to run I'll probably replace it with a 2150 Motorcraft that I have from '69-'70 304cid, from what I've been reading on the forum they seem to be popular. However I'm a bit concerned about the additional hassle of the kickdown linkage etc, I'd much rather just keep the carb for this winter - as I'm likely swapping a 4.0 head (or entire driveline from an XJ) next year.
So, about the smog removal and connections done - any thoughts, pointers or ideas?
carnuck:
You want the PCV hooked up (it was in the front hole on the valve cover and goes to the back of the carb.) The carb was set up to run with this "vacuum leak". The charcoal cannister hooks to the 2 large hoses on the top front of the carb. That just catches fuel vapors from the tank and puts them down the carb on start up so you don't smell raw fumes. I'm not a fan of EGR valves but unless you deal with the ping by retarding timing or going a colder range of sparkplug (I run NGK BKR6EK which are same as VW uses) or replace the timing chain/gears with a roller set from a '91 up 4.0L (retarding the cam cures ping). Especially if you do the head swap, which is mainly done to get rid of the plastic valve cover you don't have.
Speaking of the carb, grab it and see if it's at all twist-able. If yes, then the lack of idle is because of the vacuum leak in the mid body and/or clogged idle tubes (I cross #1 and #6 wires and make the motor backfire to clear it, AFTER making sure the carb body is tight and intake isn't loose/sucking air.
That hose going below would be to the tcase for E-drive which some '80s had. It locked the tcase so front and rear axles turned the same speed. The heater controls are also vacuum so there should be a vacuum ball for that. Yours may have the early idle speed control box near the heater under the hood hinge (I removed mine). If you have a catalytic converter, you need to remove it or gut it without the AIR pump or your floor may catch fire. When the cat falls apart on it's own (usually preceded by popcorn sounds from the exhaust) it often blocks the muffler and turns into a cork, suddenly dropping power (mine did that to the previous owner. The 998 snapping the converter and dropping out all fluids on his way to work was the last straw). After removal of the cat and cleaning the muffler (shop vac before putting the new pipe on), it now has plenty of power.
On the AIR pipe (hose behind the carb) you can get a 3/4" rubber pipe cap (I think they use them here for heater lines. They are on the HELP! rack in most parts stores) and clamp it off for now.
carnuck:
I ran a roadtube on my 4.0L, but now run it through a cannister with a bottom plug to drain it now and then. I also run Napa synthetic 15W50 oil to cut the blowby and oil consumption. (works great!) Since it's not a "real" synthetic, I don't have the leaking issues and it protects a bit more than Delo 15W40 but doesn't have the diesel additives. It still "feels" like it has zinc.
HornetRWB:
Thanks for the reply, so much stuff I gotta dissect it a bit to get it all cleared.
--- Quote from: carnuck on September 23, 2014, 11:22:14 AM ---You want the PCV hooked up (it was in the front hole on the valve cover and goes to the back of the carb.) The carb was set up to run with this "vacuum leak".
--- End quote ---
Ok, so that hose (it was loose) goes into the same size hole in the back of the carb (which was plugged by PO). I'll get that connected.
--- Quote ---The charcoal cannister hooks to the 2 large hoses on the top front of the carb. That just catches fuel vapors from the tank and puts them down the carb on start up so you don't smell raw fumes.
--- End quote ---
The cannister isn't going back ;) Those hoses are blocked.
--- Quote ---I'm not a fan of EGR valves but unless you deal with the ping by retarding timing or going a colder range of sparkplug (I run NGK BKR6EK which are same as VW uses) or replace the timing chain/gears with a roller set from a '91 up 4.0L (retarding the cam cures ping). Especially if you do the head swap, which is mainly done to get rid of the plastic valve cover you don't have.
--- End quote ---
You lost me, what's cold sparkplugs have to do with smog on a '80 Eagle? I have the vacuum for the distributor connected, is that what you mean?
--- Quote ---Speaking of the carb, grab it and see if it's at all twist-able. If yes, then the lack of idle is because of the vacuum leak in the mid body and/or clogged idle tubes (I cross #1 and #6 wires and make the motor backfire to clear it, AFTER making sure the carb body is tight and intake isn't loose/sucking air.
--- End quote ---
Will give it a twist and the intake a shout, before trying your tip on #1/#6 wires (or just taking out the idle tubes and piano wiring them).
--- Quote --- That hose going below would be to the tcase for E-drive which some '80s had. It locked the tcase so front and rear axles turned the same speed.
--- End quote ---
Ok, so where should this connect, it was already loose. To the carb or the intake or neither?
--- Quote ---The heater controls are also vacuum so there should be a vacuum ball for that.
--- End quote ---
vacuum ball? haven't seen one, except the cruise control. I'm guessing this is something that should be connected to the same outlet as the cruise on the rear of the intake manifold?
--- Quote ---Yours may have the early idle speed control box near the heater under the hood hinge (I removed mine).
--- End quote ---
I'll check it out.
--- Quote ---If you have a catalytic converter, you need to remove it or gut it without the AIR pump or your floor may catch fire. When the cat falls apart on it's own (usually preceded by popcorn sounds from the exhaust) it often blocks the muffler and turns into a cork, suddenly dropping power (mine did that to the previous owner. The 998 snapping the converter and dropping out all fluids on his way to work was the last straw). After removal of the cat and cleaning the muffler (shop vac before putting the new pipe on), it now has plenty of power.
--- End quote ---
No catalysator, and will not put one in.
--- Quote ---On the AIR pipe (hose behind the carb) you can get a 3/4" rubber pipe cap (I think they use them here for heater lines. They are on the HELP! rack in most parts stores) and clamp it off for now.
--- End quote ---
AIR pipe, that the one that comes from the exhaust manifold? If so, it's blocked already (bolt clamped to a short hose) and i'll remove it totally - looks better without it and I am redoing the entire engine bay and painting the engine, etc. after I get it running correctly.
Thanks again mate!
PS. I plan to run the engine with Valvoline MaxLife 15W50 (semisynthetic for high milage engines), I've had good experiences with it on my 242cid and 258cid engines in the past.
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