AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Mighty 258 => The Engine => Topic started by: IowaEagle on July 31, 2006, 10:06:13 AM
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Here are some links to some vendors who have/had them for the '81 - '87 258 engines. Let us know of any others.
Updated by Mavericke on January 2010
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html (http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html) - Item #83501398K-AL42, Black:$74.95
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm (http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm) - Item #83503343AL, Silver:$92.99
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_34 (http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_34) - Silver:$89.99, Black:$94.99
I bought the 4th one down on this page for my 83... it is also the same one I have on my 82, but the 82 is the silver one. It cost me $92 with shipping and everything.
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html
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WHAT about my 1988 Eagle!!! doesn't it count???? :'(
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Different valve cover. Its the good one on the '88's. Stamped aluminum from the factory.
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My 87 has the aluminum. Must have been a mid year change?
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Yes, somewhere in the '87 model year they went to the the aluminum cover. Not sure when.
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Will this work on our motors? I met a guy that has an 82 with the plastic cover and they swear it will fit. I have not seen a stamped steel one that will fit. Thanks for your input.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=TRA&mfrpartnumber=9339&parttype=1284&ptset=A
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That fits only on 1980 and before heads. No stamped steel for '81 to '87ish. Just the aluminum aftermarket ones will work or the dreaded plastic replacements.
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Doug,
How about the aluminum cover from Morris 4X4, with 4.2L logo, $52.57,
this is the one I have been looking at, says it fits '81 to '87 Jeeps.
Eddie
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Have you got a link or picture? If it is the right one that is a very good price. Does it come with the gasket, oil filler cap and screws?
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Doug,
Here is the info.
www.cyberjeep.com/prodinfo.asp?number=83501398K-AL-S&
Eddie
VALVE COVER ALUMINUM W/GASKET 6 CYL POLISHED SH
Item Number : 83501398K-AL-S
Unit Price: $52.57
Quantity
Bookmark This Page!
Refer this page to a friend
Detailed Description
FITS 1981-1986 JEEP CJ5,CJ6, CJ7 & CJ8 OMIX-ADA ALUMINUM VALVE COVER WITH GASKET ("4.2L" LOGO) 6 CYL POLISHED SHINY
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Doug,
Posted the info, this should fit my Eagle, shouldn't it?
Eddie
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Sointently. That be the one. OK all of you Rambler Mentality guys and gals. This is even less than most of the plastic replacement ones.
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This shows 80.00 now
In the grass roots project, they state that they used a 4.0 head and that gave them extra hose over the stock head will this do the same?
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The valve cover? No, it just stops oil from leaking out and looks nice(r).
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I just picked one up on ebay for $67 from "midwestjeepsupercenter", this is good for the black one, the polished one was a few bucks cheaper. Shipping was around $13 as I recall. It looked like they had plenty in stock. A pretty fair price since all I have found on the net was well over a hundred clams apiece.
I finally got sick of smelling burnt oil smoking off of my exhaust pipe!
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Yes, they do vary in price. And, I bet there are only a couple different companies actually making them so I can't understand why prices vary so much, other than the search for maximum profit and they know this is a must have item.
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@ letsroll36: thats exactly the right description: smell of burnt oil.
My wife took the Eagle for a spin today. She told me she was smelling something.
Personally I like the smell of motor oil, so I didn't notice untill know.
But now I read it: It smells just like my old Triumph 650.
I still have the original valve cover and yes it is leaking...
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I still have the original valve cover and yes it is leaking...
Sounds like an introduction at a self help group.
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Yes! Right up there with, "I'm a man and I can change...if I have to...I guess!"
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Shall we cry together for a moment :'( (holding hands is going to be difficult)
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In response to the post about an 87 having an aluminum cover.
There's no such thing as an " '88, " really. They're all '87s that were sold as '88s after the buy-out.
Speaking of which, is anyone else frustrated that an Eagle doesn't appear in Jeep's new commercial?
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There's no such thing as an " '88, " really. They're all '87s that were sold as '88s after the buy-out.
Incorrect. That myth has been disccussed and demonstrated here in the forum and in the AMC Eaglepeida to be just that, a myth. There are some subtle differences between '87's and '88's. One being the ignition module. '88's were built during the '88 model year, beginning July of '87 when all car makers start the next model year with production ending mid-model year in December of 1987.
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There's no such thing as an " '88, " really. They're all '87s that were sold as '88s after the buy-out.
Incorrect. That myth has been disccussed and demonstrated here in the forum and in the AMC Eaglepeida to be just that, a myth. There are some subtle differences between '87's and '88's. One being the ignition module. '88's were built during the '88 model year, beginning July of '87 when all car makers start the next model year with production ending mid-model year in December of 1987.
Mine was built in June.
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You are correct. I guess we did learn it was June. My mistake.
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You are correct. I guess we did learn it was June. My mistake.
You are forgiven haha :)
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OK, I give in.
While replacing the in and outletmanifold gaskets (and broken bolts) I had a go at the valve cover as well.
I removed, I think, the original RTV sealant and replaced it with blue Hylomar and let it rest for two days.
It is still leaking (of course).
Which cover can you guys advise: I really like the Omix-Ada from Morris 4x4 Centre ($79.95).
(I think it was in Eddie's contribution here)
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That is a good cover and the price is fair.
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I bought mine from Collins Bro's., on sale 69.95. with shipping 83. and change, I was surprised at the heft of it. It is wrinkle black with Polished ribs and 4.2L on it.
Eddie
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Thanks Eddie,
I just contacted them, to offer me shipment to the Netherlands.
(I just bought a heater core on Ebay for $30 with $42 shipment :'()
I think I saw some holes without thread, when I had the cover off.
Is there some tapping and helicoils involved?
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OK, I think I found the answers, I searched google for "klepdeksel jeep" and got a lot of hits.
Found the omix-ada instructions: http://www.omix-ada.com/instructions/83501398K-AL42.pdf
I have no bridges on the rockers, back and front holes are tapped 1/4"
Only the holes on the drive side need some tapping 5/16" (or M8).
I have been reading the amceaglepedia, but I don't think it is a three day job.
I have almost no vacuum hoses and didn't have to remove the wipermotor.
Took the bolts out and tilted it to the driver side. More like a ten minute job.
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AMC used helicoils during the last recall. So, I believe you can do both.
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I just found a new Dutch Jeep parts supplier www.jeepparts.nl.
If you push the the catalog button, you come straight in the OMIX-ADA catalog!
I saw that the OMIX ADA and collinbros covers have the same numbers, so they must be the same thing.
This Jeep store is only 35 miles from my home!
I will give him a call tomorrow.
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That is great! They need to revise this to include the AMC Eagle!
Welkom
Nico’s Parts Supply is een gespecialiseerde onderneming in Jeep® onderdelen en accessoires. Er zijn reeds meer dan 1500 verschillende onderdelen uit voorraad leverbaar voor de modellen CJ, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee en AMC Eagle .
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IE your anchestors are showing: your double Dutch is really unfolding here, suppose you don't even need a translation?
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I can read enough of that to know what it means. Do they have a retail store or is it all mail order? I see they have a mailing address on one of the pages and some store hours on the main page. 1500 different part inventory is not bad.
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I think it is retail, but he probably will mail to order nation wide, in Holland they don't advertise that and certainly not here in the North (far away from Amsterdam): people are more laid back here.
If he has the valve cover for the right price, I will go check him out and make a short "road trip" (take the camera and post it here).
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(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t86/bigdog56e/ValveCover.jpg)
Eddie
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Eddie, I'm a bit jealous.
I busted my knuckles last weekend on the manifolds (broken bolts/studs): everything repaired know.
I took the plastic cover off as desert, and glued it back on with RTV, degreased it properly, but it is still leaking.
So I'm going to put a new cover on.
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Jurjen,
Thats the only way to go. I had bought a gasket at NAPA, was going to try it, but decided to go with the aluminum cover.
Eddie
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Only way to go. That #7#^@)&*&)@!)(@^@ synthetic cover just won't hold its shape.
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AMEN, Doug.
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Don't believe you spell checker is working.
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Dang! Something else to fix.
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Whats a spell checker?
Eddie
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Probably something to do with the hit series "Charmed"
Back on topic again: I went to check out www.jeepparts.nl in Wommels (Netherlands).
The place looked like a dump but they we working on Jeeps all right.
Most important: they had the valve cover I wanted:
It is the Omix-Ada one and as Eddie stated it is heavy and feels like real good quality.
Here is the picture (with kitchen table):
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa237/jurjen_eagle/IMG_0076.jpg)
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Looks good. Who care what the place looks like as long as they have the parts you need. Did you share my suggestion with them about adding the AMC Eagle to their list?
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I got there catalog (you can see it on the kitchen table), I will go through it to see what fits the Eagle, and then mail it to him.
He is doing a lot of work on drive trains for CJ's for people who really take them off road.
It is good for me to have an additional AMC/Jeep expert near (there is one right here in Buitenpost, where I live, working on Chrysler/Jeep mainly Cherokee).
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@eddie, which hole (1st or 2nd) did you use to the PCV? Did you use the the rubber on the car or one of the new grommets?
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Jurjen,
I used the front hole as oil fill, 2nd hole as pcv, and the rear hole for the crankcase breather. used all the hardware they provided, works great.
Eddie
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Yes, that is how it goes.
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Ok, I did the valve cover upgrade today.
Yesterday evening I glued the cork gasket on the cover with sealant.
Put it on a flat surface and put some bricks on for weight. Left it to dry overnight.
This morning I first removed the old valve cover.
1. I removed air filter, carburettor and a bunch of vacuum hoses.
2. I removed the wipermotor, this is really easy, four plate screws and a clip (good tip from the nest).
3. Hung up the wiring loom with a piece wire on the underhood courtesy light.
4. Removed the bolts from the cover and took it off.
The bolt holes on passenger side had 1/4" heliciols and the bolts supplied were 5/16", so I used 1/4" ones with a washer.
The bolt holes front and back were 1/4", same as bolts supplied with the cover.
On the drive side were only two holes that had to be tapped.
I drilled them a little deeper to 1/2" deep (the bolts supplied need a hole a least 5/16" deep thread) and than threaded the hole with a machine tap. Since the head is cast iron, it cuts like butter. I used the family vacuum cleaner to remove the metal shavings.
It put a thin coat of sealant on the cilinderhead. If you have AC, it needs a little lifting of the AC hose to get it on.
It put the bolts in and did not tighten them right away. The bolt near the firewall is a problem to get in. I succeeded on the second try. I used an angle grinder to make the bolt pointed and used a small file to cut the thread a little deeper.
This is and old trick to make self centering bolts. It went straight in. Than I tightened the rest.
The grommet supplied for the PCV was to big. I increased the diameter of the PCV-valve with a piece of garden hose and sealed it on with heat shrink hose for a nice tight fit. Put everything back on. and make a test drive. Now it is oil tight.
In total it took me about 4 hours, incl two coffee breaks (we Dutchmen drink a lot of coffee).
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The bolt near the firewall is a problem to get in. I succeeded on the second try. I used an angle grinder to make the bolt pointed and used a small file to cut the thread a little deeper. This is and old trick to make self centering bolts. It went straight in.
Excellent Tip!!!!!!!!!!!
In total it took me about 4 hours, incl two coffee breaks (we Dutchmen drink a lot of coffee).
So that explains my coffee consumption.
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The coffee we drink is a little stronger than yours normally is.
It is more like the Starbucks Dark Roast coffee, you should try that.
Back on topic. After about 100 mls I opened the hood and it is still oil tight. No puddle under the car anymore.
I was amazed to find that almost all bolts were lose. So I tightened them again and will check again later.
I think the cork gasket must have settled in.
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Yes, rechecking fasteners is a good idea. Especially where gaskets are involved.
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I didn't remove the wiper motor to put my cover on, about two hours, including tapping the bolt holes. The entire job was not that difficult. I did have to grind some on the a/c belt adjuster for clearance around the cover.
Eddie
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JJ,
Do you suppose someone had tried put a different cover on it before, hence the mismatched bolts, or possible a screwup by a technician at a dealership? My '82 had all holes drilled on sides for 5/16", and 1/4" front and rear, all I had to do was tap for the side bolts. The tall cover and thick gasket maybe for clearance for folks using maybe roller rockers, or higher lift cams, just my thought.
Eddie
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JJ, my bolt pattern was exactly the same. The plastic valve cover used the 1/4" passenger side holes, so I used 1/4" bolts with a washer. Driverside wasn't tapped, and I drilled them a little deeper. They will hold the 5/16" thread without a problem.
There is no thread in them because on the driverside clamp plates on the studs were used.
I removed the washer motor to reach the bolt near the firewall.
This is only four plate screws and a clip (removed in 2 minutes) and will give you a lot of work space.
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Yes, different ways and cover styles to try to afix the cover were used. Mine did not have the two center fasteners. It was tapped for screws on the front, rear and passenger side and only held on by the glue on the driver's side. The holes on the driver's side were for the locating pins. Yet, your top fastened cover and my side fastened cover are both found in 1982 model cars. IIRC your SX/4 is later production than mine. Remember all of the subtle differnces we found? The recall cover where side affixed on both sides and recall notice instructions had the dealership installing helicoils as needed.
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JJ,
My original plastic cover had "nubbins" on it to fit in the holes, no gasket, just silicone. Had two studs made on the rocker bridges and 1/4" bolt front and rear, all the holes were drilled, but unthreaded.
Eddie
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And my 1983 had no rocker bridges, but used the three bolts on passenger side.
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Appears AMC tried a lot of different ways to correct a problem.
Eddie
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And the real problem was that the cover itself would warp and bow out. Not so much a fastener issue as it was a materials issue.
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Exactly, the plastic cover would warp like a 'nanner from heating and cooling.
Eddie
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Now that is a smart solution.
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I love it! I could just reach it by putting the socket straight on the elbow and than used the elongation, but this is a good way to do it too.
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JJ,
Your cover looks identical to mine, don't know why mine went on so easy, maybe motor mounts sagged a bit, huh? I didn't remove wiper motor. I used one of those 1/4" flexible drive thingies, looks like a twisted cable, and 1/4" drive ratchet to get to rear bolt.
Eddie
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Your's was a tight fit Bill. Good job. Now to clean up that engine compartment. ;D
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JJ,
Can't see why the bridges would bend, unusual for sure. When I changed my cover, I raised it enough to clear the studs and rolled it over on its side, toward carb, and pulled it forward, and put it back the same way, I did have the heater hose off that crosses the valve cover and the one from t'stat housing to intake manifold.
Eddie
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So for the gasket what all has everyone done (and it worked)?
Use the supplied thick gasket, get a thinnner gasket, or not use one at all and just go straight witht the tubed form-a-gasket?
I have gotten and read advice on going all three routes.
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I used the gasket that came with cover (thick one) and used P'tex yellow.
Eddie
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I used the thick cork one that came with it, glued it on the cover (as per instructions) with some sealant and let it dry for a night.
Had to re tighten the bolts after 100 mls: the cork gasket had seated a little.
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joe-javilin, did you drill that hole, or did you find it already there? I don't remember seeing one there on my Eagle.
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What is the difference between the Yellow Ptex you used and the Red RTV recommended in the how-to writeup in the eaglepedia?
What should I be looking for when I go down to NAPA to get this stuff?
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The yellow Permatex is a gasket adhesive. I put a thin layer on the head, and placed gasket on, let it set for awhile, put thin layer on the vave cover, and installed it. seems to be doing great.
Eddie
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Used the gasket and the orange RTV.
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Wow, I see Yellow, Red, Orange and Blue from you guys. I will see if I cant find Green just to be different too :)
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I think the biggest mistake is over-tightening. I talked to at least 15 ASE-Certified techs over the years about lb.-in. torque wrenches and always heard "I just go hand-tight."
...
I've had good luck with the copper stuff on an oil-pan. Used a thin coating on the pan, flattened by finger for laying the gasket on. I let it tack up before putting the gasket in tho to avoid slippage/over-torquing. Then I applied a bead to the gasket (waited for it to get nearly-dry) and attached.
I think my favorite technique is using better gaskets ;)
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i used the yellow gasket adhesive to stick the gasket to the head, then let it tack up, and then put the cover on.
i did not use any kind of sealant on the top of the gasket to the cover.
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I did it the other way around, used the yellow to stick the gasket to the cover then tightened it all down on the head. So far is working good.
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i just ordered a stamped aluminum cover. mine had obviously been tightened to smitherines, cuz 2 of the tabs were broken and it was leaking..
i'm hoping to get that in some time next week. :)
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That is the first I think we have heard of a broken cover. You are probably right about the over tightening.
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yeah, it looks pretty beat up. lol.
after taking the thing off i also realized that the back tab had been previously broken and jb welded back together. haha. they probably just rigged it because they couldn't find a replacement.. the back bolt on the cover is a real pain in the +++ to get off btw. lol
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That back bolt is a serious pain in the tailgate. I think it was Joe Javelin who drilled a hole straight above it.
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I remember it being a major pain. I wish I had thought of the hole above. I used a flexible 1/4" extension, by feel.
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i just got the cover in yesterday, and it's all assembled and race ready. I used a 1/4 in. joint extension to put the back bolt in, what a PAIN!! i didn't initially tighten it enough the first time either, and i started my car to find that it was leaking out of that demon bolt. another thing that i had problems with was tapping threads in on the right side, i broke a bit in it and that was the end of my night last night. i gave up and went to bed. lol
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I live in a small town in Arkansas, and our local parts store is O' Reilly's Auto Parts, don't know if any of have seen them around or not. I recently found the source of my leakey plastic cover; a :censored: crack. So, I decided to look on their website to see if they offered a metal replacement. Online they offer a crom plated steel replacement for $47.99 cents. Witht he prices I saw on other covers, I figured you guys might be interested, lol.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/ProductDetail.do?id=929078052&line=TRA&itemNumber=TRA-9339&manualPerfCategoryIndex=53&vehicle=1983AMERICAN%20MOTORSEAGLE6-258%20%204.2L&bid=1218162541787&cycleCount=833¤tPage=0 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/ProductDetail.do?id=929078052&line=TRA&itemNumber=TRA-9339&manualPerfCategoryIndex=53&vehicle=1983AMERICAN%20MOTORSEAGLE6-258%20%204.2L&bid=1218162541787&cycleCount=833¤tPage=0)
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Well, I'm low on funds at the moment and I just need something that will last long enough without leaking to get me from Arkansas to Michigan here in about a month and a half.
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Unless they sell something different than anybody else that chrome cover only fits the 80.
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Maybe I shouldn't assume it will fit then. I just know that it came up as a matching poart for an 83 through their website. Anybody else have any experience with this cover?
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Well, I'm low on funds at the moment and I just need something that will last long enough without leaking to get me from Arkansas to Michigan here in about a month and a half.
Collin Bros are still selling the aluminum ones for $69.95, that is less than a tank of gas.
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html
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Typically those chrome covers are not for the 81 - 86 models. The vendor of those for some reason continues to mis-lead buyers. The easiest way to tell if it is correct is to look to see if the sealing edge and even the dome itself is ruler straight on the passenger side. If not, then it is the wrong cover.
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I'm in the Little Rock area.
I've lived in several parts of Arkansas.
Where are you? If you don't want to tell everyone send me a pm.
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Doug,
Here is the info.
www.cyberjeep.com/prodinfo.asp?number=83501398K-AL-S&
Eddie
VALVE COVER ALUMINUM W/GASKET 6 CYL POLISHED SH
Item Number : 83501398K-AL-S
Unit Price: $52.57
Quantity
Bookmark This Page!
Refer this page to a friend
Detailed Description
FITS 1981-1986 JEEP CJ5,CJ6, CJ7 & CJ8 OMIX-ADA ALUMINUM VALVE COVER WITH GASKET ("4.2L" LOGO) 6 CYL POLISHED SHINY
is this still the best bet? I like the 4.2 stamp...
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I forgot about that cover Eddie. It will fit.
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93.99 for that valve cover now.
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Collin Bros are still selling the aluminum ones for $69.95, that is less than a tank of gas.
Better listen to the Dutchman :P
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I noticed today that my leaking valve cover is bolted with two bolts that stick out if the top. None of the aluminum covers have these holes. Is it going to be a pain to remove these?
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Pretty easy to remove those studs.
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DO they just unscrew? Also , I read the eaglepedia article on valve cover replacement, and dont know what it ment by " round nuts ''. The picture looks like regular bolts. Any pics of the stud and "round nuts"? Im going to dive into all of this buisness on monday, and would love any details you have.
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Round nuts have two flat sides, not hex sided like regular nuts and therefore have a smaller outside diameter.
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I noticed today that my leaking valve cover is bolted with two bolts that stick out if the top. None of the aluminum covers have these holes. Is it going to be a pain to remove these?
Someone in the groups said they cut the bolts off with a bolt cutter. Or, you can buy replacement rocker arm bridges without the bolts for less than $4 each.
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When i took the old cover off a few peices of the old brittle cork gasket fell into the engine. Should this wory me? I dont have the new cover yet so if it should I have some time to try and solve a problem.
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Get them out of there if they fell onto the head as they could work their way into the passages or elsewhere and mess things up.
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Hey Doug, you guys said that someone had a 70$ aluminum cover right? I cant find it... Collins Bros looked like they had one but the image was blurry and I couldnt see the "flat side"
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Ciollins does a good job of advertisng the correct application data. The blurry one appears to be just like mine. The 4.2 logo'd cover.
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Yup, it is the blurry one. See that the price is slowly going up ($74.95 now).
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I put my new cover on, and the car is still spitting oil. If i remover the new one to retry, and seal it will I still be able to use the cork gasket?
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If it comes off in one piece you can do retry.
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Any thoughts why it leaked?
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I had to redo my gasket, I take the blame for not letting the gasket adhesive set up long enough before I installed the cover first time, the gasket "oozed" toward the inside around the rear most head bolt on the driver side. This time I used a center punch and punched :censored: marks around the edge of the valve cover and the cylinder head where the gasket seals, hoping this will help "grip" the gasket, I used the same gasket adhesive, Permatex yellow, applied it to the head and put gasket on, let it set up for a couple of hours, applied sealer to the top of gasket and installed cover and let it set for a couple of hours before starting engine, have put about fifty miles on it, have checked the cover bolts twice, have tightened about 1/2 turn more each time, no leaks so far. i t is really a bad design with such a long area and those notches around the head bolts and only two cover bolts. Just my opinion, others may vary.
Eddie
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Letting the gasket goop cure is very important.
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My valve cover was replaced two Previous owners ago. Apparently the front hole didn't fit to his liking and he re-drilled the whole in the valve cover and put a washer over it. Problem is when I took the cover off to replace the gasket I lost that tiny bolt (5/32 head). Does anyone know the thread specs? Don't want to pick a new bolt that's too coarse.
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1/4"X20 is the standard bolt size, think the length is 1", socket head bolts came with my valve cover.
Eddie
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thanks eddie, you have a habit of reducing my need for internet research. egg
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Hey All,
I have what may be a very silly valve cover question. The valve cover on an 86 Eagle was recently replaced by a friend's shop. The other day, I noticed oil pooling up on the front drivers side of the cover (it is not coming from the oil plug so I would think it's coming from under the valve cover) and that the second bolt from the front on the driver's side is not secured into anything. I asked the shop and they told me there was nothing there to secure that bolt into. I would think there should be a fixed nut of some type on the underside of the valve cover to fit this bolt into. Or at least something?
So, my question is "Should there be a nut there?" or "What else can I do about that if there isn't?" I'm pretty sure that's where some of the oil is leaking from.
I am a total amateur with this stuff so non super technical terminology would be helpful for me.
Thanks so much.
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Is the cover plastic or an after market aluminum one? The mechanic is right, there is probably not a threaded hole on that side. To do the replacement cover correctly you do need to drill and tap the locating holes on that side of the head.
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...and not drill too deep, or you will "find" a coolant passage.
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anybody tried theses.. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/cj7/valve_covers.htm (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/cj7/valve_covers.htm) . theres a polished aluminum for 22 bucks.lol. im having trouble believing it.. so what u guys think?
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http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=258-HDW (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=258-HDW) theres a better link to the one im talkng about
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nvm...lol. didnt read to well. lol.its just the gasket and stuff.lol. darn
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-CJ-258-4-2L-Aluminum-Valve-Cover-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33627QQihZ001QQitemZ110302122701QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-CJ-258-4-2L-Aluminum-Valve-Cover-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33627QQihZ001QQitemZ110302122701QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V). hah. now i found one. well hopefully its for the right years..blah..
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Duh. Posted right underneath this in regards to the very thing. O'reilly has one for $45, steel, chrome plated. Dunno if it's any good, but it's steel.
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The one listed is a Transdapt TRA-9339.
If you go to the Transdapt site (www.tdperformance.com) and search for this product, you will see in the info that it is not for engines with the plastic valve cover, so suited for 1980 only.
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I got my new aluminum valve cover today from Collins Brothers!! I cant wait to quit spending money on oil!! Gonna tackle the project sunday since it's my only day off from both jobs.... I've read every post and instructions on this job and can probably do it in my sleep...lol.. Wish me luck. Thanks again for this website..it ROCKS!!!!
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oil leak GONE! thanks to everyone for hints and suggestions in this forum!
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Good news, egg in your face.
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We aim to please. Just doing our part to reduce ground and water pollution.
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I hope this isnt a re-post but I have kinda a dumb question reguarding the aftermarket valvecover. I just installed one on my '82 which I got from 4WD.com.
The plastic one wasnt very old but I decided I would spring for the cast aluminum one to be done with it. I took my time and over the course of about three days got it switched out, the engine all cleaned up and the oil changed out.
Now it leaks really bad! I got oil now dripping from the rear bumper! Man what a mess!
I made sure all the surfaces were squeaky clean before I installed the cover by following the instructions in Eaglepedia....
My theory is I think the Allen head screws sent with the kit are too long and bottom out.
Has anyone else used one of these covers before?
Thanks in advance.
Ken
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Did you buy the one with the 258 or 4.2 L lettering (Omix-Ada)?
Many of us use this type.
Did you do the drilling and tapping on the drivers side of the valve cover?
Were you able to get the rear bolt in (under the wiper motor)?
Did it come with the cork gasket?
Did you use sealant on both sides?
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Yes I got the Omix-Ada cast one that says 258 on it.
I did get the rear bolt in and tapped the drivers side holes with a bottom tap. The holes were there already I just had to tap them. All the others were tapped already either by the factory or the previous owner. I did run the tap down each to make sure they were clean.
It did come with the cork gasket and I did put sealant on both sides letting it cure good before running the engine.
I am always very careful to try to do things right but must have goofed somewhere. I'll have to pull it back apart in a few days when I can get back to it.
Thank you for the help!
Ken
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The bolts on the driver's side probably bottomed out.
You need to drill the driver's side holes a bit deeper (1/8" to 3/16") and tap it again.
Not to deep or you will hit a coolant channel.
When you are lucky, you can get the cork seal off in one piece and redo everything.
After 100 mls and 1000 mls you will have to re-torque the bolts (you will find that the bolts become loose).
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Keep us updated on this project, I'm really curious to know what went wrong.
Just as a side question... if I build a stroker... the engine wouldn't be a 4.2 anymore... so that cover wouldn't make sense... so should I go with a 258 cover? or do they have covers with no writing? or do you think I could find one that says 4.6?
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I think you will need to use the 4.0 cover Chas.
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Oh ok, so I'd be using the 4.0 block AND head for the stroker... so I would still be using the same valve cover. So just the guts from the 4.2. Gotcha.
Good to know before I bought two valve covers for the Eagles... just need one.
So for the 4.0 though, I bet since its a bit more common... I bet I could find a really nice polished aluminum or chrome cover with no writing... then I could take it in and have it engraved... I bet I could even come up something cooler than that with an AMC logo on it in color that said 4.6 Stroker or something... hmmmm...
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I just installed one on my '82 which I got from 4WD.com.
Has anyone else used one of these covers before?
Thanks in advance.
Ken
I got my valve cover from 4WD.com, it says 258 on it, and it works great - no leaks at all. If only I could say the same about my rear main seal lol.
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Ok guys I need some help. I'm 18 so I don't have a whole lot of knowledge about the compatibility of eagle/jeep parts, but my valve cover is still original and it NEEDS to be replaced. I checked the links of Iowa's first post and the covers I saw are for jeep 258's, are they the same engine as the AMC 258?
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AMC owned Jeep from 1970 thru to the bitter end. So, Jeep engines are AMC engines -- and many remained so well into the Chrysler era.
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Ok thanks a lot, so the "jeep" cover will go right on my eagle. Cool. NOw to order.
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Little OT: "Aquila" is the italian word for "Eagle"... Obviously it's intentional, but I'm curious ;)
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Yup thats what I was going for.
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That's a really cool screen name to use on this Forum ! I just wonder why I didn't think about using it here, being one of the very few Italian Eagle owners... :)
Nice idea ! Egg to you from Rome.
Sorry for going on with the OT...
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Ok thanks a lot, so the "jeep" cover will go right on my eagle. Cool. NOw to order.
Yup.
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So, how hard is it to drill and tap? I'm new to all of this and it seems a bit out of my skill level. Is it really that difficult? and how far is too far? I really DON'T want to find a coolant passage in my engine.
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You can always print up the instructions here and exact dimensions and take it into a shop to have done. If your a novice, thats your best bet. I'm a novice and I'm pretty confident in my skills.... but when in doubt... you know the saying, lol... I'll probably be taking mine if for the valve cover.
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I've read most this long thread - great topic and ideas though but the Collins one is the way to go correct?? My car hs the plastic cover. Ill insoect this weekend when I PU the Eagle.. But can't wait to get things in order.
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What year is yours?
Either way, the good news is that if you follow the instructions we have here on the nest - even a novice can install the new cover AND it's a great stepping stone into learning more about your Eagle and mechanics in general. If you're lucky (and lazy like me) you can get the old cover off and the new one on without being forced to tear off a boat load of other stuff. It will be a PITA if you have all the emissions stuff over the top though.
The drilling and tapping though... easy. I installed mine in a couple hours with help from my brother... mine still leaks, but it's only because my bolts are not torqued down... and that's only because I don't have one fo those cool torqu wrenches that show you how many lbs of pressure you're putting on it. Make sure you don't over torque, otherwise your easy project will be swapping out for a new head, lol!
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Well, not sure of this, but the collins brothers site appears to have the valve cover on sale, for less than $80. Is this the right one for the '83 SX/4 258? The part number they're showing is 83501398K-AL42.
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If you happen to run across ads for valve covers for 1981 - 1988 AMC Eagles, make sure you know what you are getting.
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83501398K-AL42 That's be the one you want.
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Mine is a 1983 Wagon.. Does that require the tapping?
I do have taps and drills so that's no problem. ALso hving a history with eaky Corvairs and stopping leaks I prefer Permitex #2. This is tough is you ever have to remove anything but really works its way into groves and warps. Stays plyable but the only downside unike some other gasket sealers this one doesnt like gasoline.
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Mine is a 1983 Wagon.. Does that require the tapping?
I do have taps and drills so that's no problem. ALso hving a history with eaky Corvairs and stopping leaks I prefer Permitex #2. This is tough is you ever have to remove anything but really works its way into groves and warps. Stays plyable but the only downside unike some other gasket sealers this one doesnt like gasoline.
No rhyme or reason as to which of the holes on the head were drilled and then tapped. You will just have to look to see what you have.
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Does anyone have the torque spec's listed for this? I never did get a definitive answer for this one.
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28 inch pounds
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All the holes in my '82 Eagles head were drilled, only had to tap them.
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I need some help. I got the new Collins valve cover and am trying to size it to the block, but part of the body right below the wiper motor is blocking the cover from going all the way back. It's just thin metal sticking out but should I just hammer it back out of the way?
Also, in reference to the bridges, the directions say to replace the two tapped bridges. Which are those two? It looks like a couple are different from the rest, but they are all the same size and really no different from the two replacement bridges.
I was able to tap the two holes on the driver's side. The valve cover came with five 5/16's bolts and two 1/4" bolts. Two of the old holes have helicoils in them making them 1/4" so I'll need to make a trip to the hardware store tomorrow.
The old cover wouldn't let me get a socket on the back nut so I did what any frustrated mechanic did; I just broke it off and pulled the old cover off which gained me easy access to the back bolt.
Thank you for any help.
Javelin Man
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It is a common problem for the firewall to extend over the back of the valve cover.
If you will do a search you will find what others have done.
Some have used a flexible 1/4" extension, and someone advocates drillng a 1/2" hole above the back bolt and putting in a rubber plug when you are finished.
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Thank you for the reply. I used extensions but a part of the old valve colver kept the socket from getting on the bolt. At least that problem has been solved.
My problem is trying to put the new valve cover on. I push it back and it hits the body, not the firewall. After struggling a while, I took it off and found the back of the new cover all scraped up where it hit the metal. Dad always taught me not to force anything, just use a bigger hammer. I'm about to that point.
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Don't get the BFH out yet. You can gain a little more access by removing the wiper motor.
It is a two minute job: four screws, a plug and a retainer ring.
Position the valve cover with a fingertight bolt on either side (diagonal) so you can still shift it a bit, now try to get the last one in.
If it still hits the fire wall, I think it is time to inspect the engine and tranny mounts.
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Yes, it's an automatic. I didn't remove the wiper motor, but did take it out of the firewall and it's hanging up out of the way tied to the rook rack. I like the idea to check the motor mounts and will do so after a spot of coffee and a crumpet.
The cover isn't hitting the firewall, but the sheet metal below the wiper motor. The BFH is on my workbench just a couple paces away.
Any suggestions about the valve bridges they suggest replacing? I'm not too sure they haven't already been replaced since they all have the same dimensions.
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Oui, it does start and only in park and neutral. Occasionally more often at stop signs than it needs to, but that's a different story. It had a plastic cover which I removed then then I was able to get that last irritating bolt out.
Did the old switched rockers have a part in trying to hold the original cover down?
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My plastic valve cover was only held down along the sides, and did not have the rocker bridges either, so I did not have to change anything on the rockers.
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My plastic cover was held by two nuts on studs in bridges and 1/4" bolts in front and back, I use a flex 1/4" extension to get the rear bolt, I had to tap the side bolt holes. I would check the trans mount, seems the engine/trans has sagged in the rear causing the cover to hit the firewall. If your car is an a/t the parts books will not show a trans mount, just use a straight drive mount and remove the syuds welded in it. Been there and done that.
Eddie.
PS: I too, used the Collis Bros' cover.
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Thank you for the #411 on the rocker bridge studs. I am satisfied that I don't have any problems with those since I see no studs (besides myself! ;D) sitting in the valve area.
I went the BFH way and knocked the sheet metal back a bit, then squirted some trim black paint on it to thwart the rust. I've applied the Ultra black RTv sealant and put the cork gasket on. I put the bolts and and will let things set up for a while. We'll see what happens after lunch or later.
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Pushing the sheet metal back bought me the extra 1/4" I needed to get the valve cover on. It still scraped a little of the paint off that I had just put on, but I'm not concerned about that.
I only have a few extra parts now that I'm done. ;D
I didn't drill the driver's side holes any deeper so the bolts bottomed out. I, of course, thought about checking this after I put the air cleaner and all vacuum hoses back on. I pulled those two bolts and put some washers under the bolt heads which should be just right. After fighting with the back driver's side bolt for too long, I remembered I had a socket with a 6mm head. What I argued for a half hour before took 10 seconds with the right tool. ::)
I'll let everything sit overnight and start it up in the morning. I am hoping not to leave my mark everywhere I park.
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Pushing the sheet metal back bought me the extra 1/4" I needed to get the valve cover on. It still scraped a little of the paint off that I had just put on, but I'm not concerned about that.
I only have a few extra parts now that I'm done. ;D
I didn't drill the driver's side holes any deeper so the bolts bottomed out. I, of course, thought about checking this after I put the air cleaner and all vacuum hoses back on. I pulled those two bolts and put some washers under the bolt heads which should be just right. After fighting with the back driver's side bolt for too long, I remembered I had a socket with a 6mm head. What I argued for a half hour before took 10 seconds with the right tool. ::)
I'll let everything sit overnight and start it up in the morning. I am hoping not to leave my mark everywhere I park.
Nice to hear it finally went on there. I had some clearance issues when putting mine on too, but I just took the wiper motor off to make clearance and put it back on once I got the cover on. You might have had a trans mount issue like mentioned early causing the need to the firewall recess. But as long as it fits now. I believe I read in my 1980 service manual one time, that it was required to dent the firewall in a few inches to get the engine out of a Pacer, so your 1/4" isn't bad at all. ;D Also, my bolts bottomed out too, so I went out and got a bottoming tap, and I was able to get 3-4 more threads in the hole. But after I converted mine to the aluminium cover, mine hasn't leaked a drop, and hopefully yours will do the same. :)
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No leaks from the valve cover! I'm still finding a couple drops, but my guess is the rear main oil seal is next to be fixed.
Thanks to this forum, I was able to replace the valve cover properly. If I hadn't found this treasure of information, I would probably had tried to replace just the gasket and been very frustrated with the results. Your experience told me to get the aluminum replacement which was the right thing to do.
I bought some items from the East Nest Store to show my appreciation. :)
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Your purchase is much appreciated and should be winging its way to you today.
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Maybe this isn't the correct place to ask this but did any of the early YJ Wranglers that had the 4.2 from the factory have a aluminum valve cover and would it work on our cars with the drill and tap method?
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I think that all AMC 258 engines between 81 and 86 came with the plastic cover.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm
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Yes, AMC used the same stuff in their cars and Jeeps.
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But did the early YJ's have a aluminum one?
I know they made a running change with the 1988 eagles and wondered if the same happend with the early yjs with the 4.2
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The running change was made in '87 and yes for Jeeps at the same time.
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I have always thought that the aluminum valve cover would only fit the 87 and newer 258s. I do know that the aluminum cover is a great improvment over the plastic one. I have a 87 Jeep Wrangler I bought new in March 87 and the original valve cover gasket is still doing it's job. Not a drop of oil after almost 23 years. Compared to a 81 Eagle I bought in 84 and I had to reseal the valve cover at the time I purchased it. (and again and again every year or so)
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From 87 and on it is Original Equipment. For the AMC 258 from 81-86 it is a replacement for the factory plastic ones.
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From 87 and on it is Original Equipment. For the AMC 258 from 81-86 it is a replacement for the factory plastic ones.
Actually, not all 1987 models had the Alum. Valve Covers. The later 1987 models then used the Alum. Valve Covers. My 1987 is an Early model, manufactored in Sept. 1986, and has a Plastic Valve Cover.
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Some have all the luck ;)
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Yes, it was a running change. My guess is around January, that is when AMC liked to change things. Just remember the '87 and later cover has a different mounting surface the the plastic cover heads.
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so the later 4.2 will not fit on the 81-86 head?
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so the later 4.2 will not fit on the 81-86 head?
Correct. Only the '87 and later heads it was designed for.
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GREAAAAT
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I have an aluminium after market valve cover on my engine and it is leakiing. Can I just use the oem gasket or do I have to order a specific one for the valve cover? I snapped a picture of it because it was replaced before I purchased the car and maybe somebody knows the make.
http://s839.photobucket.com/albums/zz318/waldo343/new%20gauges/Leaking%20Valve%20Cover/
Thanks, Wally
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That sure looks like an '87 and later valve cover. What year is your engine?
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It is in an 83 SX/4. I was told the engine had been rebuilt about 30 or 40 thousand miles ago. I won't know for sure until I get the engine out in the spring. In the meantime I would like to get the oil from running down onto the headers. Is the gasket the same for the plastic covers and the aluminuim ones? It would be a drag to get the thing apart and have the wrong gasket.
Thanks
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That cover should only fit the '87 and later heads. So, you may have a different head on an older motor, which is possible, you then will want the gasket for the '87 and later heads. I have seen later covers put onto the older heads and they will leak terribly as they are not meant for the '81 - '86 head. So, the first thing you need to determine is which head do you have. Why are you pulling the engine? Maybe they stuck a newer head on and reused the 7/16" diameter head bolts which could explain a really poorly running engine, if that is what you are experiencing.
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Hey IE... can we get the main post updated for most recent valve cover shops/prices?
If I get the digging done before you (thinking you probably already know), I'll post it. I just want to find an alum cover for my 83 engine and get it ordered like yesterday.
Thanks!
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Sure you do the homework and I will update it.
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10-4 good buddy!
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Updated January 2010
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html (http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html) - Item #83501398K-AL42, Black:$74.95
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm (http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm) - Item #83503343AL, Silver:$92.99
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_34 (http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_34) - Silver:$89.99, Black:$94.99
I bought the 4th one down on this page for my 83... it is also the same one I have on my 82, but the 82 is the silver one. It cost me $92 with shipping and everything.
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html
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Updated January 2010
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html (http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html) - Item #83501398K-AL42, Black:$74.95
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm (http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm) - Item #83503343AL, Silver:$92.99
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_34 (http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_34) - Silver:$89.99, Black:$94.99
I bought the 4th one down on this page for my 83... it is also the same one I have on my 82, but the 82 is the silver one. It cost me $92 with shipping and everything.
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html
any use for that oil breather cap (Bottom of page) on our machines.. ? just curious.. I suspect we have enough holes n outlets on the cover as it is...
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Thanks Mav. Updated the first post with your information.
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Not sure about the Lynx... good question though.
Thanks Doug!
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Has anyone had any experience with the PML valve cover? It is capable of using the studded bridge mounting. Fairly pricey at $160 though.
http://www.yourcovers.com./valve_covers_8656.php (http://www.yourcovers.com./valve_covers_8656.php)
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Nice find... I like that style. Wish I had found that before I bought my latest cover... technically my engine isn't a 4.2 anymore, ya know? It was all I could find. :/ I'd love to have a chrome cover honestly... with no stamp (unless it had the AMC logo)
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I have to ask... When I mentioned the aluminum valve cover to the owner at our local NAPA, (Hes the guy with several eagles of his own, one of which his son jumped about 8 ft high and blew the shocks out the hood.. lol) about the valve cover, he said something along the lines of dont go with the them, use the plastic covers kinda thing...?
Any theory what may lead to this opinion when everyone else, and everything I've read says otherwise.. ?
A valve cover/gasket, distributor seal/o-ring/ (whatever holds our oil in) distributor seal, and *UGH* rear main seal would cure all my leaks...
(Except the rear diff leak... ??? I re-did my rear axle seals, bearings brakes etc when I got the car and made dang sure that vent tub and port was free and clear to breath, I promiss!!!! and it leaks out that triple stupe rear diff plug.. better there than blowing out the axle or pinion seal I guess...)
Its just one of those things thats bugged me about the valve cover. However, I think I've at least un-conciously decided to go with a new alum cover... just haent found one with the right words on it yet... hehe... too bad we cant get those custom inscribed! mine would say "TANK" or maybe "SOAR" lol
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I don't think anyone has reported any issues with any of the aftermarket valve covers. I think one member did say their's developed a crack along part of the mounting surface. That could have been a manufacturing defect or an installation issue.
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Agreed.
I love the newer valve covers.
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And I have never heard anything positive about the plastic cover, other than you can use it upside down and put some plants in it.
I tried to fix it and it leaked worse after that. The aluminum one is tight and the engine is dry.
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Its possible that some of these heads may leak worse than others. I pulled the head on an engine that was very leaky. Upon inspecting for flatness, the combustion side is true and flat; the valve cover side has a crown from the center to both ends of approx 3/32, :censored: near an 1/8. I thought about getting an extruded aluminum but it will probably crack. Going with the plastic and rocker bridge studs, along with some flange nuts and eccentric washers for the left side of the head. the other option is to take it to my machinist and mill off the excess. to me that seems like alot of material, i guess it depends on how much clearance is between the cover and the rockers.
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That is quite a difference. I wonder if that was that way from the factory or something brought about from time and miles?
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I always thought that my 1980 cover was the same as 76 0n but today I tried to put a nice shiny NOS metal oil cap on my Eagle like the 79 Concords have a guess what, I've got a nice decoration to put on the shelf in my garage. At least it has it's original AMC box.
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That is quite a difference. I wonder if that was that way from the factory or something brought about from time and miles?
I'm not sure either, the fact that the combustion side is flat makes me wonder. I can't imagine its designed like that. I have the amc factory valve cover fix kit, which includes a very thick "neoprene like" rubber gasket which makes me wonder even more. I'm not comfortable drilling into my head for fear of diving too far and hitting the water jacket. I've had pretty fair luck with the bridge studs and "the right stuff", so I'll give it a whirl.
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I like "the right stuff" hehe. good for many things...
I wonder if the guy i was talking to had such a problem where it was warpped or whatever bad like that, and maybe he tried a new non-plastic cover and caused him greif.. ???
meh.. prolly never know.
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Just curious, mine has the aluminum one already ( black w/ polished ribs ). Had the wrong gasket ( included with Eagle when I bought it ) & Tech School ordered a gasket, got the same thing. Posted here on The Nest & got the correct number ( Thanks again Eric Armstrong ). Question is about the cover, it is completely flat, no lip or anything to keep the gasket from sliding around and/or help align it when trying to install. Is that the way it's supposed to be or is something wrong with mine?
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You are good to go.
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You are good to go.
Thanks IE, it was already installed when I got it, so no destruction manual to read.
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Hi, I may not be looking at the right thread here, but i didnt feel like making the 100th "new" thread here with questions probably answered before, although I cant find this one with the Search button.
I got a valve cover, aluminum, grayish and says 258 on the top, the mounts are the same in the front and back as my plastic one, but my plastic one has 2 threaded studs which go up through it in the middle(off the rocker bridges) but this aluminum one has bolt holes near the edges of the head, are they tapped and ready on my head, '82 wagon or will I need to make them myself? And also are the plastic fasteners for the plastic cover(on rocker bridges) removeable with ease?
The valve cover is from an 87 Jeep Wrangler with a 258.
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I got a valve cover, aluminum, grayish and says 258 on the top, the mounts are the same in the front and back as my plastic one, but my plastic one has 2 threaded studs which go up through it in the middle(off the rocker bridges) but this aluminum one has bolt holes near the edges of the head, are they tapped and ready on my head, '82 wagon or will I need to make them myself? And also are the plastic fasteners for the plastic cover(on rocker bridges) removeable with ease?
The valve cover is from an 87 Jeep Wrangler with a 258.
Unfortunately, the '87 258 head is a different design so the valve cover will not fit your '82 head.
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When you say it wont fit, do you mean the surface of which the gasket sits on is different? or that the mounts are different? because I think I can modify the mounts by drilling and tapping.
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The surface is different. 81 through 86 than 87 and up are different covers
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Yes, heads used from 1981 - 86 are unique and no other covers from other years will work. So your '87 cover will not work unless you have a later head on your Eagle.
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The valve cover from this 87 wrangler was a direct fit on my eagle, dont ask me why, seals perfectly, there are bolt holes on both sides, 3 on passenger side and 2 on driver side, 1 on front and 1 on back, like on original plastic one... although the bolt holes on the sides are not threaded, but the holes are there for some reason and dont look home made...
All I did was cut off the threaded studs that go off the valve bridges and tighten it down with the front and the back bolt and it doesnt show a leak yet... absolute direct fit, bolt on no problems and looks good too
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Its possible the Wrangler engine was a early, early '87 or transplanted in from a earlier year -- and its one of the aftermarket aluminum covers. Is there any cast in lettering on the top?
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The cover is aluminum, it is black with grey/aluminum colored fins on top and it says 258 with grey letters.
dont have camera at the moment. Fitting the rear cover bolt turned out to be more than me and my tools would handle, however it doesnt leak(yet) with only the single front bolt and the rhodoseal RTV holding it in place...
Works for me so far, but I guess if it starts leaking I will have to fit the rear bolt and preferable drill and tap the holes in the sides of the head to secure it more properly...
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From your description it seems like an after market valve cover on an engine with the head which originally used the plastic valve cover. That head was used on 258 engines built for the '81 - '86 model years and was also used on some early '87 model year engines.
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Great coincidence, this is gold in my hands, the only one available in Iceland!
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For the rear bolt beneath the firewall, someone on the forum drilled a 1/2" hole in the overhang
and when finished plugged it with a rubber plug.
I wish the suggestion had been made before I did the 83.
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Here are some links to some vendors who have/had them for the '81 - '87 258 engines. Let us know of any others.
Updated by Mavericke on January 2010
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html (http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html) - Item #83501398K-AL42, Black:$74.95
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm (http://www.quadratec.com/products/51104_04_07.htm) - Item #83503343AL, Silver:$92.99
http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_34 (http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=21_34) -
Silver:$89.99, Black:$94.99
I bought the 4th one down on this page for my 83... it is also the same one I have on my 82, but the 82 is the silver one. It cost me $92 with shipping and everything.
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/valcovgromoi.html
Did you have to do any drilling?
Regards,
Will
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You are in the correct thread, to install it you will have to do some reading here (and yes, drilling and tapping).
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I got mine from www.perfomanceoffroadcenter.com for $61.59 plus $12.98 shipping.
It came with cover, gaskets,rocker bridges, and bolts it was a direct fit- I had to tap the two holes in the driver side of the head and use a flex extension for the back bolt.
the box it came in says the cover was made by "Crown- Quality replacement parts for jeep vehicles" and replaces part# 83501398-ALB
(http://i687.photobucket.com/albums/vv240/dodecafarm/P1020355.jpg)
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Okay, so the collinsbrothers replacement seems to be the way to go. The thick gasket that comes with the replacement sorks just fine. Use plenty of silicone, let it set overnight, maybe drill a half-inch hole to ease access to the rear bolt. Be prepared to do some drilling and tapping, be careful not to go to deep as to get into the water jackets. Remove the windshield wiper motor. Be ready for anything from 10 minutes to 3 days time into this project, tighten the bolts again after 100 miles and again after 1000 miles. ::) Almost sounds easy, doesn't it! I love this forum, makes my life easier ;) Now if I could just get my wife to go get me some printer ink so I could print some of this stuff to take to the garage with me, life would be grand! :-*
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Wow, that is a pretty good summary.
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The Reader's Digest version. But, very accurate.
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I know I'm bringing up a bit of an old topic, but I was curious if anyone has bought some of the 4.2 Valve covers off ebay?
There is a seller named thejeepwhse that sells the '81-'86 Aluminum Replacement. He is selling a Black cover and an unpainted aluminum cover. Both right at about 100 bucks.
I just wanted to make sure these would fit and if anyone had any experience with them.
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The manufacturer is Crown.
Scoll up a bit and you will see it installed, cheaper too from PORC.
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Scroll up a bit and you will see it installed, cheaper too from PORC.
The link posted above for perfomanceoffroadcenter does not work.
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Google it and then try the link, works perfect.
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Got a question, where do I get a replacement "710 cap" for this valve cover? The current one pops out when I hit the slightest bump.
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/spf150/dipstick.jpg)
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Try Napa for an '80s cap. IIRC part number 703-1330
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Try Napa for an '80s cap. IIRC part number 703-1330
That number doesn't come up on their site for anything at all. Will try the store tomorrow
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703-1300 then (fat fingers)
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703-1300 then (fat fingers)
That looks like the one, thanks!
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The original style will not work on most aftermarket valve covers. I had to buy a generic replacement (1-1/4"?) and trim it down a little. Its a pretty tight fit but it doesn't leak around the cap anymore.
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I was wondering about this cause I got to do my valve cover install still. Guess I need to purchase a new cap.
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I was wondering about this cause I got to do my valve cover install still. Guess I need to purchase a new cap.
The cap that comes with the kit should work fine. The one I posted about is worn out. On my Eagle I'm running the same valve cover and cap and it doesn't leak whatsoever.
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oh...literally haven't really looked at what all came with the kit...if it comes with the cap that would be awesome.
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I've got an '81 SX/4 with a steel valve cover with the two studs through the middle of it. Did the head remain the same when they switched to the plastic covers? If I get this kit http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=4259 (http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=4259) will the holes on the cover line up with adequate material on the head to drill and tap? I know it was mentioned they used a few different patterns, but the description for this part says 81-86....thanks everyone!
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Better recheck that cover with a magnet. Look at the passenger's side of the valve cover shape to tell which matches.
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ya i thought they were plastic too. Unless his motor isn't original.
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I had a chrome plated valve cover for an 84. so anything is possible
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I say one chrome plated plastic on a YJ
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It was metal aftermarket. leaked as bad as the plastic
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If it's the correct shape, I'd redo it with the "Right Stuff" sealer.
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Yup. Der. Plastic. My brain has been farting a lot lately.
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Gonna do my part to keep this impressively long thread alive.
I just replaced my factory plastic valve cover over the weekend with the Black AL one from Collins Bros.
Leaks like a geiser now. I did not use sealant between the head and the gasket (as they advised). Got talked out of it by an excellent mechanic friend of mine. Anyhow, that's not the worst of it. The rear-most hole in the driver's side has completely stripped out. I think I did a poor job of tapping the existing hole there, and now I need to figure a plan to fix that hole.
Any ideas on what's best?
Heli-Coil?
EZ-Lok? (3/8" od 1/4" id)
Drill and tap to 3/8 and look for a 3/8 - 5/16 or 3/8 - 1/4 automotive stud to put in there?
javascript:void(0);
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When I drilled the holes in head, I accidently stripped them out as well. I drilled the hold a little bit bigger, and then used a helicoil to fill the gap, since I couldn't use a larger bolt. The only thing was, the helicoil was a little too long for the hole in the head, and you can't drill the hole too much larger than it needs to be, So I used a wire cutter to trim them down a little so the helicoil depth matched the depth of the hole in the head. It worked well, and have not had any leaks yet after about a year and half and probably around 1500 miles.
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helicoil is what I did
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Thanks for the input. So, I just spent nearly an hour searching for past info on just how deep can you drill a hole in the head. I didn't find any references.
I intend to use a helicoil on my stripped hole (so that I can use the original specced 5/16-18 allen-head machine screw. The standard helicoil length is about .40", and the hole needs to be a bit deeper to allow room for a tap (even a bottom tap requires extra room below the bottom of the helicoil).
Anyone know how deep one can drill??
Thanks
Tom
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Ok, I did the valve cover upgrade today.
Yesterday evening I glued the cork gasket on the cover with sealant.
Put it on a flat surface and put some bricks on for weight. Left it to dry overnight.
This morning I first removed the old valve cover.
1. I removed air filter, carburettor and a bunch of vacuum hoses.
2. I removed the wipermotor, this is really easy, four plate screws and a clip (good tip from the nest).
3. Hung up the wiring loom with a piece wire on the underhood courtesy light.
4. Removed the bolts from the cover and took it off.
The bolt holes on passenger side had 1/4" heliciols and the bolts supplied were 5/16", so I used 1/4" ones with a washer.
The bolt holes front and back were 1/4", same as bolts supplied with the cover.
On the drive side were only two holes that had to be tapped.
I drilled them a little deeper to 1/2" deep (the bolts supplied need a hole a least 5/16" deep thread) and than threaded the hole with a machine tap. Since the head is cast iron, it cuts like butter. I used the family vacuum cleaner to remove the metal shavings.
It put a thin coat of sealant on the cilinderhead. If you have AC, it needs a little lifting of the AC hose to get it on.
It put the bolts in and did not tighten them right away. The bolt near the firewall is a problem to get in. I succeeded on the second try. I used an angle grinder to make the bolt pointed and used a small file to cut the thread a little deeper.
This is and old trick to make self centering bolts. It went straight in. Than I tightened the rest.
The grommet supplied for the PCV was to big. I increased the diameter of the PCV-valve with a piece of garden hose and sealed it on with heat shrink hose for a nice tight fit. Put everything back on. and make a test drive. Now it is oil tight.
In total it took me about 4 hours, incl two coffee breaks (we Dutchmen drink a lot of coffee).
This is some good stuff from an earlier post in this thread.
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Great . . . thanks for posting. I must have missed his reference to 1/2" deep on my read through.
I just did find another reference in a jeep forum to 'just a hair deeper than 1/2".
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I have an aftermarket aluminum head cover on my eagle. I used black ATV (forget the name right now) on both the head and the cover. I put the sealant on the head cover and attached the gasket. Let that dry until it was stuck on good (but not cured). Applied sealant to the head and then dropped the cover in place. Tightened all the hex key bolts and let it set up. After 2 years, the headcover started to drip oil again at the rear and rear passenger side. So, I tightened all the bolts again. Some of them had worked themselves loose to the point where they were only hand tight. I have had to tighten the bolts a couple of times over the last year. Finally, I pulled the bolts one at a time & sprayed brake cleaner into the bolt hole, then blew it out with compressed air to clean the oil out. Cleaned the oil off the bolts and put a drop of blue locktite on the bolt and then torqued them down again. The rear bolt is a BEE-ATCH to get at and I finally modified an Allen key specifically to get to it, by cutting it down so it just clears the head cover when tight. I was leak free for a while, but the rear bolt has vibrated itself loose. I think I am going to apply a lock washer to that one.
The point is, even with sealant, the engine will vibrate the bolts loose and you will have a leak after a while. It is only a matter of time. I think this should be viewed as an ongoing maintenance issue rather than a fire & forget solution. I spoke with an old AMC mechanic I ran into one day. He said that in the day, they put the sealant onto the head cover and let it cure. Then they wiped a thin film of oil onto the head and attached the cover. The oil allowed the cover to stay tight to the head, but let the head expand and contract under the cover. The 2 materials expanded at different rates with heat. The head cover had to be re-tightened periodically to keep the oil from really leaking out.
Just my POV, though.
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Anyone know how deep one can drill??
I drilled my holes to the approximate distance that the screws had to go into the head. I determined how much of the length of the screw was used for the just going through the cover and the cork gasket by putting the screw the valve cover and the gasket, and the distance that was sticking out, is how far I drilled.
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About 15 years ago I had a plastic leaking valve cover. I tried to redo it myself several times and it still leaked... although not as bad as the original. A few years later... after I had the engine rebuilt... I went and bought a brand new one from the local Chrysler dealer and had the engine shop put it on before the engine was reinstalled. Although I know it will eventually leak again at some point... it hasn't leaked since... this is another reason why i want the 4.0 head. The valve cover was superior to the original 258's.
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Aluminum aftermarket ones are superior to the plastic ones in pretty much every way.
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Just started to install my aluminum valve cover today and I can't help to wonder why the new cover does not have the holes in the center of the cover where it uses a bridge stud. Seems to me that it would help to seal it better. Strange thing is the new cover comes with a new bridge without the stud to install in place of the studded bridge when in my opinion it would have been just as easy to have put a couple of holes in the new cover and use the studded bridge. I'm sure there must be a reason for this but I'll be if I can figure it out. Maybe one of you has a answer. I would sure like to know.
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My original flower planter didn't have the centre bridge either, I guess that saved me from worrying about it.
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They discovered the center bolts caused the cover to warp
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Well I can see where the bridge would cause the plastic cover to warp,that makes sense to me but I would think the aluminum one would be fine with the bridge and stud.Anyway its food for thought.Just wondered why it is not used seeing as how its already there and all.
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I guess you could try if you wanted. I just use "The Right Stuff" and be done with it. The plastic cover Max98059 has was glued on with just the end screws and no leaks.
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Well after waiting for more then a week my valve cover finally showed up and it looks pretty nice. Just a plain aluminum cover with polished fins and 4.2 on top but still looks pretty nice. Sure beats that leaking black plastic flower pot thing. Any way I was reading the instructions and its pretty basic just the normal drill and tap stuff and all then when it came to tightening the bolts it said to tighten the rear ones first then tighten the front ones then tighten the middle ones.I thought to myself that can't be right so I reread them and anyway thats what it said to do. Still don't sound right to me so I thought I'd just ask how the rest of you did it. Seems a better way would be to start in the center and work out ward and the two at each end would be last. What do you all think?
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Just started to install my aluminum valve cover today and I can't help to wonder why the new cover does not have the holes in the center of the cover where it uses a bridge stud. Seems to me that it would help to seal it better. Strange thing is the new cover comes with a new bridge without the stud to install in place of the studded bridge when in my opinion it would have been just as easy to have put a couple of holes in the new cover and use the studded bridge. I'm sure there must be a reason for this but I'll be if I can figure it out. Maybe one of you has a answer. I would sure like to know.
The PML aftermarket valve cover has the option of using the bridge mounting. http://www.yourcovers.com/valve_covers_8656.php
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Just found a really inexpensive one while browsing the web: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/rough-trail-valve-cover-kit-aluminum-os-83501398-al.html
No idea how good it is.
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That is a good price.
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I ordered the aftermarket aluminum valve cover for my '85. My directions say that there are holes that need to be tapped for the valve cover. They also say that for model years '85 and later do not have the pre-drilled holes. That means I would have to drill the holes and then tap them. I would be fine with this, but I have heard that there is not enough room in the head for the drilling and they leak when you do this. Has anyone had this problem or did I just get bad information?
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Here's some info.
http://amceaglesden.com/guide/index.php?title=How_To_Upgrade_Your_Valve_Cover
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I ordered the aftermarket aluminum valve cover for my '85. My directions say that there are holes that need to be tapped for the valve cover. They also say that for model years '85 and later do not have the pre-drilled holes. That means I would have to drill the holes and then tap them. I would be fine with this, but I have heard that there is not enough room in the head for the drilling and they leak when you do this. Has anyone had this problem or did I just get bad information?
Someone tapped my head for the aftermarket valve cover prior to me getting it. We didn't realize they had cut through to the water jacket until after we had the head rebuilt and installed on the motor and in the car.
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I purchased mine (1983) from Turner 4WD Parts Co. >http://thejeep.com<
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You can seal the threads if they go into the water jacket. If I were able to, I would redo the Clifford design to allow more room for bolts. The options are allen head screws or T bar bolts like hotrodders use.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/carnuck/AMC%20Eagle/valvecoverleak4.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/carnuck/AMC%20Eagle/1351792443.jpg)
You can see the Tee bolt by the air cleaner.
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So Vangremlin came by yesterday and helped me put my new aluminum valve cover on. It was easier than I expected and we only had to tap the two driver's side holes. The engine was rebuilt about 20 years ago (according to a warranty document in my glovebox). Consequently the three holes on the passenger side had been plugged and tapped for 1/4" so we had to run to the hardware store for some new bolts.
By the way: you know in the eaglepedia valve cover guide where it says to cover up the rocker arms so nothing falls into the engine? That's sound advice. I dropped one of the screws into a pushrod cavity just moments after removing the old cover. We got it out, but that was an unnecessarily stressful 15 minutes or so.
(http://i.imgur.com/H13sOIT.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iqiyjAS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jMGQLXa.jpg)
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I keep seeing people say about the valve cover swap that it's only for eagle engines '81-87' Or '81-86', Which is it? I have the 87, which i've heard some examples got an OEM aluminum. Just curious if that was mistyped, and that the 87 is the same as other eagles before it.
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‘87 to ‘91 4.2L came with aluminum cover with a little overlap. Wrangler YJs.
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Ok all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I am in need of your guidance . We have been working on our 1985 AMC Eagle Deluxe for several years now. essentially, we have rebuild the entire vehicle. Suspension, Trans, cooling system and engine has been done from top to bottom. We had purchased an aftermarket BML valve cover that looks beautiful on the vehicle. But, we keep blowing the gaskets. Im thinking that there is to much pressure in the crank that is causing this issue. Has anyone combated this issue and if so, how did you do it. Please help. I have a breather on the top of the valve cover. Would a PVC valve also help with the pressure. I ordered another valve cover and a heavy duty casket.
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If your PCV system is working at all you should not be blowing out cover gaskets unless you have some insane blow-by. Make sure your breather vent is not plugged.
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On our 83 eagle, the valve cover has two pcv vents, one on the front right behind the rubber "bathtub stopper" oil filler hole(which leaks) and the rear pcv. Front one has rubber tube that goes to vacuum side of carb, and rear one goes to a filter/baffle on the back of the air cleaner. Both have lots of oil blowby, I guess it's time to replace, but wondering why there are two of them..... Anyone know?
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Just realized dummy previous owner put the crankcase vent coming from front valve cover elbow fitting over to intake manifold vacuum, and pcv from rear valve cover to air cleaner.
Would explain why there was so much oil from vent elbow as manifold was sucking mightily on that hose when at idle
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the rubber "bathtub stopper" oil filler hole(which leaks)
For that I can say the Gates aftermarket oil caps are too loose a fit. I used a socket and a hammer to press a washer into the underside of the cap to expand it a bit and it's a much tighter fit now.
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Got success at auto zone, they had the exact oem style rubber oil cap for $4.00! Went on real tight, no more oil blowby!