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  • May 12, 2024, 02:45:06 PM

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Author Topic: S10 Axles  (Read 10474 times)

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Offline eaglefreek

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Re: S10 Axles
« Reply #15 on: October 25, 2014, 10:32:24 PM »
I purchased an Eagle reman half shaft and an S10 reman half shaft. When measured totally collapsed, I got a 3/8" difference as mentioned by others. After I removed the old Eagle shaft. I put the hub in relation to the axle flange on the differential where I thought it would be the closest distance between the two. The distance was a 1/2" longer than the S10's collapsed length, so I installed the s10 axle. It wasn't easy though. The splined end did not want to go into the hub. I spent some time filing the splines and was able to get it to start into the hub and had to use the impact to get it to pull all the way through. It's going to be fun to remove it some day. The "new" Eagle one didn't want to go in either. The Eagle one actually appeared to be S10 parts with a new center rod that was a little shorter and the splined end was cut to match the Eagle since the S10 stub is a little longer.
OEM CV axle next to the remaned Eagle CV axle.


1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear.
1981 AMC Eagle Wagon As Seen On TV  Lost In Transmission


 

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Offline carnuck

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Re: S10 Axles
« Reply #16 on: October 27, 2014, 07:27:29 PM »
The "tulip" cup (where the inboard tripode ujoint lives) doesn't look like it allows for enough in-out movement for major flex. That's why I questioned a company out here that builds race CV axles for a living and was told about using a different inboard cup that allowed for more in-out but he cautioned me that too much length to the in-out cup would interfere with axle angle.
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