tranny doesn't shift out of first when cold

[84eaglelmz]

I started a new post so the other one does not get clogged with 30 different questions.

The car is shifting perfect now when warm but when taking off after it sits overnight it stays in first for like 5 mins, it will rev really high and just stay in first, ill shift into neutral a couple of times and when i get back to drive it will shift into second. and third, but then when i stop it stays in 3rd until i manually shift it back to 1st, then all is well the rest of my drive.

Ideas? Everyone has really been helping me out a lot and I thank you.

[carnuck]

The governor is sticking. You may be able to clear it by cleaning the valvebody or adding a can of Lubeguard for Dexron transmission fluid.

[amcinstaller]

yep, what he said. had that happen on 2 of my 3 hondas (the other one would have likely suffered the same fate but it was removed from my posession before i saw it happen, dont ask )

[84eaglelmz]

Thank you! ill see what I can do with it.

[BenM]

The TSM starts out with checking fluid and linkages first, then it goes on to pressure tests and disassembling the governor. In passing it says to check the filter and the torque on internal components, and toward the end of diagnostic procedures it talks about adjusting the front band, which is the one done without dropping the pan.

If I were doing it in the driveway, I'd do a filter/fluid change and go ahead and adjust the front band. You may want to adjust the rear band while the pan is off since you can access it. It just takes a torque wrench.

Check the torque on the valve body too while you're in there, you may just have a loose bolt.

[Bird-o-Prey]

I had the same thing happen after I had my tranny rebuilt.  All was good for a while, then it would be hard to shift when cold.  It started taking longer and longer to shift.  After taking it back to the tranny shop, they pulled it apart again and found that the torque converter had blown up and little bits of metal had found their way into the rest of the tranny.  It was beyond repair, so they rebuilt the whole thing again at their cost. 

I suspect that if you keep driving it, you will notice that the shifting issue will continue to get worse.  I cannot say definitivley that you have the exact same problem that I had, but the symptoms are exactly the same.

Best of luck.

[BenM]

The other advantage of a fluid change is after you drop the pan you can take some pictures of the filter and the stuff in the bottom of the pan and post them here for diagnosis.

[84eaglelmz]

I did a fluid change when i bought the car, but i might as well do another one since the pan leaks. What all should i do while the pan is off besides the band? If something was majorly wrong why when the car is warm it shifts wear i can not even feel it.

[carnuck]

Get the pan gasket for a Jeep Grand Cherokee 42RE as it's not the weak cork one that leaks so often and it's reusable.

[84eaglelmz]

ok thanks i will. Here is a picture of the pan, This is only after a couple of months too.

[84eaglelmz]

Anyone have an idea where to start about the metal shavings?

[mudkicker715]

Simply put.     it is obvious right. its near death. i would not bother slapping the pan back on.

how was the kickdown rod? did it downshift right? how about upshift? years back i never believed in them with my first eagle. it was mia. the tranny lever for kickdown must have been stuck just right for my driving style. i took that perfect trans out of that car put it in another and got your metal shavings than it was toast. i thought it was a fluke. so i rebuilt it. same thing.

that kickdown rod gives hydrolic pressure according to throttle position i learned. so thats why i ask.

[BenM]

That is a lot of wear for just a short time.

[carnuck]

Looks like either the converter is going south, a planetary was running dry and spalling or a band lost it's material and is now running metal on metal (maybe adjusted too tight or dragging?)

[84eaglelmz]

Simply put.     it is obvious right. its near death. i would not bother slapping the pan back on.

how was the kickdown rod? did it downshift right? how about upshift? years back i never believed in them with my first eagle. it was mia. the tranny lever for kickdown must have been stuck just right for my driving style. i took that perfect trans out of that car put it in another and got your metal shavings than it was toast. i thought it was a fluke. so i rebuilt it. same thing.

that kickdown rod gives hydrolic pressure according to throttle position i learned. so thats why i ask.

Down shifted perfect and up shifted perfect most of the time when warm. cold is a little hesitant. The throttle rod is all adjusted correct, it was. It didn't slip or anything.

[84eaglelmz]

Looks like either the converter is going south, a planetary was running dry and spalling or a band lost it's material and is now running metal on metal (maybe adjusted too tight or dragging?)

Most likely time for a rebuild now? Anyone have ideas on cost of this? or if i can buy a remanufactured one, and where?

[mudkicker715]

Would love to see the problem than. my sedan powered stroker burned 3 trannys before i switched to manual. torque convertor hub on one, trans bands twice. now with manual it can drive sideways when pushed. otherwise i think i broke my automatics by breaking the speed of sound with no kickdown. haha

[Bird-o-Prey]

I took mine to a really good shop.  Very reputable.  It cost me $1027 CAD for a full rebuild with a new torqu converter.  The first rebuild was my bill, the second one was theirs.  The torque converter they put in the first time was defective.

Cheers

[BenM]

I pulled one out of the car myself and took it down to be repaired, cost me about $800-something about 7 years ago. Put over100,000 on it with towing before I wore out the bands again, and that's with the 2.35 which is probably the hardest on a transmission.