main seal repair costs?

[shawnson]

today i discovered that my main engine seal is shot and the inline six in my 1983 eagle is hemeraging oil. does anybody know how much this repair would cost? 

[shanebo]

The last rear main seal I had done at a shop, on an eagle, was about 10 years ago on an 82 coupe. As I recall, I believe it was in the neighborhood of $1100.00. The part is like $12.00. It is a pain in the  , messy, miserable job....but if you have the space and the time i would definatly do it myself....It took me about 2 days to do my last one.

[Gil-SX4]

How sure are you its the main seal, could just be the valve cover.
There are 2 ways of doing it either pull the engine or drop the tranny.
In the old days most mechanics would prefer to pull the engine, since lifts back then where center actuated. But in this days I say its much easier to drop the transmission, and with the modern lifts  it should not be much more then 2 to 3 hours. The book says 4.3.
Down here dealers comonly charge about 75 per 1hr so lets say its 400 for labor 12.00 for the seal making it a total of 412.00

[shanebo]

I got ripped....the guy sensed my deperation to get my car back, so he took the liberty of screwing me....thus, now I doo everthing myself.

[Gil-SX4]

It happens to all of us.

[BiRDman]

Is this a 1 piece seal or a 2 piece seal. Mine is bad, too, and I've got a guy that will do it for $75 if it is a 2 piece.

[rollguy]

The rear seal is a two piece unit, with the upper half in the block, and the lower half in the rear crank journal. The oil pan will need to come off to replace the seal. It is possible to remove the pan with the engine in the car, but it is NOT easy.  The entire front crossmember can be lowered (with engine supported from above), and the pan removed.  This is not an easy job (I have done it), and I would not do it this way again.  The easiest way (in the long run) is to just remove the engine, and leave the trans and TC in the car.  You can then put the engine on a stand, and do the whole job without laying on your back in a pool of oil.   Another reason to do it this way, is you can clean and paint the engine before installing it.

[Sunny]

1100$ is.. nuts.

I would do it yourself if you have any mechanical ability.

[Canoe]

The rear seal is a two piece unit, with the upper half in the block, and the lower half in the rear crank journal. The oil pan will need to come off to replace the seal. It is possible to remove the pan with the engine in the car, but it is NOT easy.  The entire front crossmember can be lowered (with engine supported from above), and the pan removed.  This is not an easy job (I have done it), and I would not do it this way again.  The easiest way (in the long run) is to just remove the engine, and leave the trans and TC in the car.  You can then put the engine on a stand, and do the whole job without laying on your back in a pool of oil.   Another reason to do it this way, is you can clean and paint the engine before installing it.

From the local 258 guru in town.

• You do not have to remove the oil pan, just lower it.
• A coat hanger will fish the old seal out.
• Lube and push the new one into place.
• Re-sealing the oil pan is a pain (not much room to work), but also doable.

[rollguy]

The rear seal is a two piece unit, with the upper half in the block, and the lower half in the rear crank journal. The oil pan will need to come off to replace the seal. It is possible to remove the pan with the engine in the car, but it is NOT easy.  The entire front crossmember can be lowered (with engine supported from above), and the pan removed.  This is not an easy job (I have done it), and I would not do it this way again.  The easiest way (in the long run) is to just remove the engine, and leave the trans and TC in the car.  You can then put the engine on a stand, and do the whole job without laying on your back in a pool of oil.   Another reason to do it this way, is you can clean and paint the engine before installing it.

From the local 258 guru in town.

• You do not have to remove the oil pan, just lower it.
• A coat hanger will fish the old seal out.
• Lube and push the new one into place.
• Re-sealing the oil pan is a pain (not much room to work), but also doable.

Yes, it may be a little easier in a JEEP, but not so easy in an Eagle.  I would not want to have the oil pan or rear seal leak again after replacing them by just lowering the pan.  "Re-sealing the oil pan is a pain (not much room to work), but also doable." On an Eagle, you have much less room with the front diff in the way.  But yes, it can be done this way if you're into punishing yourself!  Best just to remove the engine.

[amcinstaller]

yea, that "debate" has been had many many many times. in the end, majority rule says just pull the engine. but, since its more than 3 bolts and pulling the engine isnt as easy as an 89 chev pickup, i can see 1100 bucks being not really a fair price, but a pretty normal one  although, they may or may not suggest replacing the oil pump while youre at it to try and reduce the pain of the 12 dollar seal. when i bought the 2 piece one for my 93 kee 4.0, it was like 37 bucks, and one piece rms for my 98 stratus (2.4 4cyl) was also about that.

[Gil-SX4]

Now comes the fun part. Most of us once we see the engine out and the oil pan off will start thinking like amcinstaller said as long as its open I should change the oil pump, and why not check the bearings, and as long as the bearings are going to be check I should take advantage and re-ring the pistons, Humm a overhaul gasket set isn't that expensive I should change all the gaskets, lets see I can all so ...

[Canoe]

Yes, it may be a little easier in a JEEP, but not so easy in an Eagle.  I would not want to have the oil pan or rear seal leak again after replacing them by just lowering the pan.  "Re-sealing the oil pan is a pain (not much room to work), but also doable." On an Eagle, you have much less room with the front diff in the way.  But yes, it can be done this way if you're into punishing yourself!  Best just to remove the engine.

Apparently anyone can do it on a Jeep.
(like I did a crank & bearing repair on my I6 while it was still installed on my Landcruiser - could have eaten a pizza under there while working)
He got his business, even after he retired, from doing it to Eagles.
Claim was 45 minutes.
Never saw it myself.

[Gil-SX4]

Hey. patience, practice, know how and the right tools makes every job go a lot better.
Now if I could only get at least the right tools. (Hummm box cutter).

[Canoe]

Hey. patience, practice, know how and the right tools makes every job go a lot better.
Now if I could only get at least the right tools. (Hummm box cutter).

I'm getting quite the collection of the right tools, but I can't seem to manage them so I can find them when I need them...

[shanebo]

I have a bad habbit of losing, lending, and leaving behind my tools. I used to be a die hard snap-on and mac fan but after loosing a bunch $100.00 hand tools I now fancy myself a harbor freight guy

[vangremlin]

I paid about $400 to an independant (i.e. works out of his shop at his house) mechanic to change the rear main seal.  He did it by dropping the front axle and worked underneath the car.

He did a nice job, problem was that wasn't where the leak was.  Turns out there was a crack in the block near the left rear that would open up when the engine was torqued.  So I bought a 258 out of a jeep for $300 and installed it with a friend.  So it may be cheaper to replace the engine than the rear main seal 

[Gil-SX4]

$400.00 sounds like fair price.

[Pat]

For what it's worth, a shop I go to sometimes here quoted me about $500.00 estimate for the job. Mine still leaks for $500.00 I can afford a couple qts. every 100 miles. Plus I HAD planned on getting a 360 installed anyway. Still unsure what the status is on that.