The Mighty 258 > Exhaust System.

HELP! Exhaust Manifold Removal

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blk-majik:
Howdy all. I'm working on removing the head from my 258, but am having some difficulty getting the exhaust manifold out of the way. It's technically disconnected from the head, but I can't get it separated from the exhaust downpipe to remove it from the engine bay.

I see there's 3 bolts between the manifold and the pipe. There's one big horizontal bolt head on the front of the pipe, and two smaller vertical bolts that clamp the pipe and manifold together. I cant see a way to get the 2 vertical bolts out without removing a bunch of stuff from under the engine. I assume they need to come out, some how? Is there an easier way?

What's the story with the big horizontal bolt? Does it need to come out at all? I've tried turning it and hit it with more penetrating oil that I care to admit, yet it hasn't budged. Instead the corners of the bolt are starting to get rounded off from the struggle.

In a lot of photos I've seen, it looks like people just cut the downpipe in half. I've been tempted to do the same, but once that's done, there's no going back. Why are so many people cutting the pipe?

I've attached some photos to make it clear what I'm talking about. Horizontal bolt = green, vertical bolts = yellow.

Thanks!

lapoltba:
My knowledge is limited, and i'm sure someone else will be along shortly to correct me but....

I think what you have circled in red in the 2nd picture shouldn't matter.  The flange with two bolts should be all that is holding the downpipe to the manifold.  If you're not *too* worried about saving the downpipe since it looks pretty rough already, break the bolts loose using a long extension if you have to.  They look like they may shear off as it is though.  Once the bolts are broken loose (or just broken) a good whack with a hammer should result in two separate pieces.


*EDIT*

Pretty sure what you have circled in red is/was for EGR valve.  It's just a plug on yours.  Don't worry about removing it.

Amc1320:
I took these off not long ago and they can be a challenge, and rusty!

Don't be afraid to soak them in a lot of penetrating oil btw

I couldn't get a regular wrench on them due to the lip, and a socket wrench wouldnt fit straight to get a good enough grip to not round off the bolt

I bought a 3/8 inch drive small breaker bar, used a small shallow 1/2" socket and made sure it was on there real good and then wasmable to break them free, they fought me all the way off with small turns, reposition wrench, small turn, repeat several times

You dont need to take off the big bolt

It's a pain but it will come loose eventually

Good luck
Rob c

blk-majik:
Thanks guys! The plan is actually to do 4.0 head swap, so I'll probably junk the manifold and downpipe, anyway. I think a sawz-all might be my best bet.

Before I commit to that, did you get to he 2 bolts from under the car? The axle is under them, so I dont see a good way to do that without a mess of extentions and swivels. I tried from above, but didn't have any luck. Maybe putting some plywood over the passenger half of the engine to lay on might make it easier?

Amc1320:
I was able to get them from above, it's a tight fit but can be done

It was one of those times I wished I had an extra set of elbows......

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