Author Topic: '92 Jeep Cherokee Oil Pan on '80 Concord (Read 11307 times)

Tony and Nicki · « **on:** April 04, 2011, 04:16:49 AM »

Hi guys,

As some of you may know I'm installing a '77 jeep 258 engine into our '80 Concord. Now as it happens when the Concord engine threw a rod it punched a pretty big hole, as it turns out, in the upper front part of the pan. I was hoping I could patch it but part of the damage is on the lip and it's a pretty good size hole.

Anyway I've been told a '92 jeep Cherokee Oil Pan will fit and they are easy to find new so I was thinking of going with that.
My question is: Would I then want a '92 cherokee oil pump and pick up tube/screen? It looks like the cherokee pan is a little deeper so presumably I'd need a longer pick up tube.

I was also concerned that the Cherokee oil pump distributor drive might not be the same length or whatever. Looks like the mounting holes and everything would be OK though.

BTW when I looked up the '92 cherokee oil pan on the Dorman site it listed: 1999-87 Wagoneer, Comanche, Cherokee, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee L6, 4.0L (242 CID), w/o Sensor Hole Dorman 264220 as all having the same Oil Pan.

As always, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!
tony and nicki
tucson AZ

IowaEagle · « **Reply #1 on:** April 04, 2011, 06:20:03 AM »

If it will work I would think you would need to swap over the oil pump, tube and screen.

amcinstaller · « **Reply #2 on:** April 04, 2011, 09:12:54 AM »

i havent tried it yet myself, but from what im seeing, im not thinking itll work. i have been tempted to give it a shot though. heres a comparison side by side, 80 spirit pan in front:

and pumps and pickups, spirit on right

pumps are not the same but will interchange, pickup needs to match the pan, make sure theres no leakage between the pickup and pump or you will have aerated or no oil into the engine

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #3 on:** April 04, 2011, 01:41:52 PM »

Ok thanks very much,

I see what you mean. Looks like the 'Cherokee' pan might not quite clear the cross member where it starts to slope down to the sump area. The Spirit pan has a shallower angle. The 'cherokee' pan is also much deeper so I see why you'd need a tube to match. Great post thanks!.

I guess I'll need to re-think this one $:-\$ .

Cheers!
Tony and Nicki
Tucson AZ

amcinstaller · « **Reply #4 on:** April 04, 2011, 02:40:23 PM »

yea that pan is even from the 92 4.0 jeep cherokee like you had mentioned. however, i believe all 2wd small bodies (gremlin, spirit, concord, and maybe others) with a 258 and possibly a 232 should fit your car.

IowaEagle · « **Reply #5 on:** April 04, 2011, 09:12:37 PM »

I forgot this is a Concord. As said, many years I-6 pans from AMC cars should fit just fine.

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #6 on:** April 05, 2011, 12:00:32 AM »

I found this '70 '80 AMC oil pan on e bay a while ago and it's still up there:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/70-80-258-4-2-Amc-Oil-Pan-/400152225957?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2aee68a5#ht_500wt_749

It's pretty much the only one I've seen since I've been looking. Unfortunately this guy is not set up to receive questions but it looks pretty much like Concord's pan.
I haven't tried any of the local boneyards and I'm not sure I would want to that route anyway. The thought of pulling a pan in a dusty junkyard, especially now it's already in the high 80's here, is not too appealing not to mention time consuming.

Below is my Concord pan. You can see the hole at the upper front of the pan is pretty big. I toyed with the idea of repairing it with fibre glass/cloth but I'm not sure I'd be able to guarantee it's reliability

!

Cheers!
Tony and Nicki

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 05, 2011, 12:09:11 AM »

Have it welded. That's not to horrible to not reuse

shanebo · « **Reply #8 on:** April 05, 2011, 12:35:15 AM »

Just be carefull...If it does fit it will be alot closer to the pavement

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #9 on:** April 05, 2011, 01:13:28 AM »

It's not just the the hole in the side I'm concerned about but the 'lip' is biffed in and torn also:

But hey, if welding is a possibility I'm all for it.

And yeah, you're right shanebo I did think about the Cherokee pan being lower to the ground and I do sometimes go down dirt roads when camping

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 05, 2011, 02:22:53 AM »

A good metal worker can work that out. But now I would say get an estimate as it could be time costly for him to do it

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #11 on:** April 05, 2011, 03:22:58 AM »

Thanks mudkicker,

I'll keep your advise in mind.

Still not sure which way to go with this but I'm kinda leaning towards just getting another pan. The one I've been keeping an eye on on ebay is $70 inc shipping.
I reckon it might take a good metal worker at least an hour to fix my pan so it might cost just as much to go that route and the pan is not in that great shape overall being as it's dented also.

Cheers!
tony and nicki

thereverendbill · « **Reply #12 on:** April 05, 2011, 05:00:27 AM »

you might be able to make the cherokee oil pan work with some creative hammering, but I would make a skidpan for the pan because it will sit lower to the ground

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #13 on:** April 05, 2011, 10:11:02 AM »

Thanks reverendbill,

True I hadn't thought of that. For all I know it might actually fit anyway or be pretty darn close. Sure looks that way from the pics.
I'll let you all know what I decide. Thanks for all your help everyone!.

Cheers!
tony and nicki

IowaEagle · « **Reply #14 on:** April 05, 2011, 08:22:39 PM »

IIRC if you use the Jeep pan you need to add an extra quart.

shanebo · « **Reply #15 on:** April 06, 2011, 01:10:57 AM »

More oil capacity is never a bad thing!!

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #16 on:** April 09, 2011, 11:39:53 PM »

Hi guys,

I decided to go with the '70 to '80 AMC Oil Pan on e bay. I just got it yesterday (3 days after purchase from MA to AZ!). It's nice and straight and exactly the same as Concord's. I cleaned and painted it today so that'll be going on soon. In fact I'm almost ready to install the 'new' engine. Just gotta clean and paint the engine bay, which will be no easy task as it's very greasy

. Anyone have any tips on that job?

Cheers!
tony and nicki
Tucson AZ

shanebo · « **Reply #17 on:** April 10, 2011, 01:43:49 AM »

All I can suggest is a strong concentrate degreasers like that Purple Power stuff...let it soak and power spray...then repeat if needed.. That stuff will take of the majority of it....I then take a rag soaked in some kind of solovent...such as methyl ethyl Keaton..and give it a good wipe down to strip of the last of the greasy film...I then used a good sponge bath using dish detergent ...spray clean wipe dry... Try painting a small area and if the paint separates and wont adhere ....back to step one.

thereverendbill · « **Reply #18 on:** April 10, 2011, 01:08:03 PM »

sanebo is correct, get a 5 gallon jug of purple power (like 10 bucks at walmart) and a spray bottle. wet the engine bay first then spray the purple power on full strength and use a brush (a tire brush is one of the nicest things I ahve found for cleaning an engine bay) then rinse it real good with water. repeat as many times as needed to get it all the way clean.

if your going to paint the engine bay a great thing to do is after your cleaning but before paint is get a red scotch bright pad and rub everything down so the paint will adhere better (the red scotchbrite is like 400 grit sandpaper).

Good luck on your project and gratz on the oil pan

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #19 on:** April 10, 2011, 11:48:57 PM »

OK thanks shanebo and reverendbill,

Those sound like great suggestions. I'll be starting on the cleaning tomorrow.

Meanwhile I have another question. I noticed the front Vibration Damper Pulley on the jeep engine is 7" diameter whereas the Concord's is 7 1/2". I didn't think it would be an issue but my alternator belt won't tighten as a result.

So I want to transfer the Vibration Damper Pulley from the Concord engine to the Jeep. According to the shop manual I should just be able to remove the Vibration Damper Pulley by removing the capscrews and should only need a Vibration Damper removal tool to pull the actual Vibration Damper. I also removed the Vibration Damper hub bolt but the Vibration Damper Pulley doesn't want to come off either engine. So my question is: Do I need to borrow a Vibration Damper removal tool to get the Vibration Damper Pulley off?

(BTW The alt belt is not OE 'cos the P.O. eliminated the A/c Compressor and idlers so now the alt belt runs from the Vibration Damper Pulley straight to the alternator instead of around the idler and Compressor Pulley and the alt being driven by the Compressor pulley. I want to install A/C ASAP so I don't want to run it as a non A/C set up which would be around a double groove fan pulley to alternator)

tony an nicki

maddog · « **Reply #20 on:** April 11, 2011, 02:37:18 AM »

you will need the tool as those are pressed on with the same tool if i remember right. oh and i would borrow the tool from a parts store.

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #21 on:** April 11, 2011, 06:00:04 AM »

Oh! OK thanks maddog,

That would makes sense 'cos I can't see how else it would come off

.

I gotta go to autozone tomorrow to pick up some supplies (purple power and paint for the engine bay) and see if they have an oil pump screen installation tool for the new oil pump/screen (says online they have one in the loan-a-tool program OEM 27105) so I'll pick a Dampener puller/installer too while I'm at it.

cheers!
tony and nicki
Tucson AZ

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #22 on:** April 11, 2011, 01:37:01 PM »

Hi guys,

Just a quick update. I just pulled the Vibration Damper Pulley with a 3 jaw puller. It didn't need a damper puller, it was just on there tight. I could probably have pried it off.

I dare say I could have used a Damper puller but it's really not necessary.

cheers!
tony and nicki
Tucson AZ

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 11, 2011, 03:05:28 PM »

There's a good chance you wrecked it. That thing is sandwiched press fit with rubber. 3 jaw pullers are a big no no. it can separate or loosen your dampwr

IowaEagle · « **Reply #24 on:** April 11, 2011, 09:55:28 PM »

Yes, best to use the correct puller. It is easy to separate the outer part of the pulley from the hub and then you are looking for a new harmonic balancer. I learned this the hard way back in the mid 70's.

Tony and Nicki · « **Reply #25 on:** April 12, 2011, 12:46:30 AM »

Hi guys,

Thanks for the heads up.

I think we might be misunderstanding here. I'm not talking about removing the Vibration Damper just the pulley that's attached to it in front of it.

I can't speak for other years or other cars but for the '77 jeep and '80 concord the VD Pulley comes off by hand. When I took Concord's off later I just pulled it off with minimum effort with my hand. Just the 3 'capscrews' hold it on to the actual Vibration Damper. (then you would need a balancer puller to get that off obviously)

In fact I laughed at myself for pulling out the jaw puller on the Jeep's VD Pulley 'cos it only took one turn and off it popped. A tug would have done the job. There isn't even any need to remove the Vibration Damper Hub Bolt in the center.
It was just like the '80 AMC Shop manual says. Gotta love shop manuals!!!

Sorry for the confusion

BTW that purple power is working a treat!. One more half day at it and I reckon I'll be ready to paint. It's looking like I might be dropping the 'new' engine in on the 31st anniversary of the old one (14th April)

Cheers!
tony and nicki

IowaEagle · « **Reply #26 on:** April 12, 2011, 06:24:11 AM »

OK -- yes, you are right the pulley is separate.