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  • June 10, 2023, 01:26:12 AM

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Sorry I can't help much from 3000km away, it could be literally a million things.  If your road trip takes you to the Great Lakes, I could fix you up, but from here, I can only run through a thought experiment on what I'd do if you showed up to my shop.  Let's start with the test drive I'd give a hard to find noise.  With your foot lightly on the brake over these bumps, does it still make the noise?  How about swerving left-right like when they warm up the tires in NASCAR, does it make noise then?  In & out of driveways?  How about a hard braking or acceleration event?  Can a strong guy (or two people combined) make the noise by pushing down or pulling up on the bumper?  A yes to any of these could narrow it down.

Next comes the visual inspection.  Start by double checking that front end resting on the ground and hanging in the air (with upper arm supported as I'm sure you know).  Different parts become loose at different times.  Use a big prybar in between every bushing and joint.  Go up and down, AND side to side on all of it.  Look for fresh, bright red rust (or scrubbed paint, if she's that clean) coming from anywhere where two things can touch.  Control arm to frame, drivetrain to body.  Look over every inch for evidence.  Double check the tightness of every single bolt and nut.  If you had the knuckles off, you been pretty far already, I know.  But this is the time to second guess everything.

Still making noise?  Take out the shocks.  STILL making noise?  Completely remove the sway bar.  Sometimes those shocks and bushings can be bad without any way of being able to detect it.  I've had dozens of brand new shocks clunk out of the box (thanks Monroe).  And I've had cracked sway bars that make noise at odd times, check it over especially at the welds.

It can be tough to find.  One time I chased down a nasty sounding gremlin on my own Eagle.  After I did the first round of parts and alignment, I got a new banging that I felt in the floor.  The clamps for the tie rod sleeves were pointed down so I could tighten them easy, but in that position they hit on the crossmember on driveways or on bumpy corners.  Took me a bit to find that one, I drove it until I saw the marks that appeared on the subframe and the clamps.

Also one time I had an Accord with a weird clunk over bumps and I found a whole walnut fruit wedged between the transmission and subframe was the cause.  Like I said, it could be a million things.  Good luck!  ;D
I can confirm a rear diff master rebuild kit part number.  Motive # R35JRMKT is listed for a Dana 35, but I remember all the bearings were correct.  Axle seals sold separately, because there were different kinds throughout the AMC 15/Dana 35 dynasty. 

The bigger issue is, of course, the axle shaft .  I'm curious which axles your tech was putting in.  Were they clipless Dana 35 axles?  I could see it working if the length and splines match up.
So i figured out that the 2.73 number is wrong.  Everything listed is 2.72 so i'm not sure where the 2.73 is coming from, maybe the rear axle number?  Like with Jeeps the 3.54 is sometimes listed as 3.55 for some reason even though the tag says 3.54.
My bad if i caused any confusion, you should be fine swapping in 3.08 or 3.54

Paul Revere;  Sorry for hijacking your thread

Axle / Differential / Re: The 1980-83 Right Rear Axle Problem Struck Again
« Last post by KIV_6051 on Yesterday at 05:41:24 PM »
Gotta ask .... why don't they want to just simply swap in another axle??    That would be the easiest cheapest route I'd think.

The two-piece axles in the AMC 15 are obsolete and nobody makes tapered splines.  The technician explained that he used to replace two-piece axles in Jeeps with Ford 9" style axles all of the time.
The other problem is the rear-end needs to be rebuilt, and while there are plenty of AMC 20 rebuild kits out there there are no AMC 15 rebuild kits.

Basically my best option is a most-common best-match Dana 35 that can be rebuilt now and later down the road.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Axle / Differential / Re: The 1980-83 Right Rear Axle Problem Struck Again
« Last post by AMC of Houston on June 08, 2023, 10:07:29 PM »
Gotta ask .... why don't they want to just simply swap in another axle??    That would be the easiest cheapest route I'd think.
Axle / Differential / The 1980-83 Right Rear Axle Problem Struck Again
« Last post by KIV_6051 on June 08, 2023, 08:33:12 PM »
Thankfully the axle snapped at the hub at a relatively opportune time and place.  I took the AMC 15 rear-end to a custom drivetrain shop and was informed by the technician that rebuilding it wouldn't be financially feasible compared swapping in a Dana 35 from a Jeep XJ.  The technician explained that a Dana 35 from a 1993-98 Jeep Cherokee would most likely be best since it appears to be bolt-on (with 5 x 4.5" hubs and minus the shock mounts of course) but I want to make certain I buy the right part the first time.  He also explained that if I want to keep my 3.31:1 gear ratio, I'll have to get a Dana 35 that has a 2.73:1 differential housing (carrier) since it should be identical.  If I can't locate an AMC 15 from a 1984 Eagle or a Dana 35 from a 1985-88 Eagle in good condition, what year or year range of XJ would have the most feasible replacement?  At the very least, is there a Jeep model year or year range I should avoid?

Additional concerns:

Axle width: the 1998 Cherokee (compared at the drivetrain shop) has an axle housing that is flange-to-flange wider than mine by about 3/4".  How far can I deviate from the stock Eagle AMC 15 width?

Comparable brakes: I was told by the technician that I shouldn't have to worry about the replacement brake assemblies being disc or drum and I shouldn't have to replace the proportioning valve.  Can anyone confirm this?

Transfer case: after the right rear axle snapped off, the Eagle was towed by the rear-end without a tow dolly on the front wheels for about seven miles at a max speed of 35 MPH. 
Is there a way I can test the existing transfer case with the rear axle removed?
I have the original 1981.5 Select-Trac NP129 and if this tow fried it, will I be able to keep my stop-and-shift system if I swap the transfer case with a NP229 or NP241?
If I do need a new transfer case, wouldn't I be better off replacing the 3.31:1 gears anyway with 2.73:1 gears since the replacement transfer case would have a low and high range?
Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Klunking...but from /WHERE/??
« Last post by MIPS on June 08, 2023, 01:30:46 PM »
But that would be the back, no? A rear suspension failure is something on a road trip you can kinda recover from with a hunk of wood but a failure in the front would almost always mean it's tow time.
It bothers me. Even when I had the knuckles apart last month I wasn't finding play. Everything seemed to be pretty well seated.
Question and Answer / Re: Replacement antenna
« Last post by vangremlin on June 07, 2023, 09:45:23 PM »
I haven’t had great luck with some of the generic replacement antennas in recent years, unlike the ones I’d get 10+ years ago. Seems like I couldn’t get the claws pushed through the hole far enough to get them to swing into place. I finally got one meant for a classic Mustang from one of the Mustang suppliers and it works great.
I had a similar clunking in my Gremlin.  The shop diagnosed it as being the bushings were too small in the front of the leaf springs ( or the eye was too large), allowing the leaf spring to move.  They did something to squeeze the eye to make it smaller.

Not saying this is what you are experiencing but maybe take a look at it.  Good luck!!
Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Spring Perch Bushings
« Last post by MIPS on June 07, 2023, 03:58:56 PM »
Cross-posting for closure.

They're in. Had a shop remove the old bushings and weld the new ones in. Don't forget to buy new bolts and nylon nuts.

Two things to note:

1 - Make sure the grease fitting points DOWN. If it points to the front or back you can't get a socket onto the nut for the shocks. The outermost nut is easy to reach with a spanner but the inner nut, oh man get ready for a world of caustic swearing. ;)

2 - The bushings come prefilled with grease. DO NOT ADD MORE GREASE! I did and with one extra pump it blew the seals out. You can put them back in with a deep enough socket but you have to remove any extra grease that has oozed out and into the seat for the seal because when you put the seal back in it will hydraulically pop the other side out.
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