AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Axle / Differential => Topic started by: doc65 on March 09, 2012, 09:29:35 AM
-
Anybody with a disconnect front axle thought about or better yet actually used one of these???
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/PDFs/inst_900-920.pdf
I looked at it when I had my early XJ, never really got around to it, but it seems like a really elegant solution.
Doc
ps I will probably do it in the SX/4 somewhere down the line, and the fact that it has a provision for an inline switch is cool, it the t-case had one, or I can find a way to install one like on all my 231/242's then I could drive a light for 2x/4x, I've already determined that when I inject her I'm going to use the stock Check Emissions Light as my Check Engine light/MIL...
-
I used one on a Dodge I had, and they work great. It turned out to be about the same price (maybe just a little more) than replacing the vacuum motor.
-
I work on Jeeps all the time w/ these exact kits. Work great.
-
Rollguy, I realize that they might be about the same, or even slightly more, but that vacume system is just too failure prone, a little abrasion wear on a hard vac line, or a cracked diaphragm, and it's a No Go for 4X. and the fact that there is no indicator that it's in or not just doesn't give me a warm fuzzy... :)
Doc
-
I had a vacuum axle in the front of my '83 Cherokee full size with an NP208 tcase which doesn't have the vacuum ports to operate it. I used the dash switch with silicone hose ends on the vacuum tubes to only operate the front diff.
I also had manual hubs on it so I could disconnect the drag of the front diff for long trips.
I've even thought about using Ranger/BroncoII manual hub setup in my Eagle to save wear and tear on the front axles.
-
I like the idea of the Ranger manual hubs, though I haven't looked into it too much yet, have you researched it?
Doc
-
Only so far as MJs are concerned
-
Well if it can be made to work for an MJ it'll also work, or can be made to for an XJ, ZJ, TJ, etc. not shure how that translates to the Eagle though with it's unique front bearings/hubs
-
I've already determined that when I inject her I'm going to use the stock Check Emissions Light as my Check Engine light/MIL...
In the dash cluster, there already is a Check Engine, as well as an Emission Maint light.
-
I personally disable all my axle disconnects with a hose clamp and leave them disconnected. The exception is that I would like to have a front locker in one of my Eagles powered by a full time NV241OR transfer case. That Eagle will need a front axle disconnect to drive on the road. This kit is a great option for that, so I'm quite pleased with this information. Thanks!
As far as manual hubs, there is a good possibility that a solution for an XJ will work in an Eagle. An XJ or MJ wheel bearing unit has the same hole spacing as an Eagle and the same 27 spline shaft. If it works there, it will work in an Eagle if you bore the hole for the wheel bearing assembly by 3/16". Its a good idea to add a gusset at the same time.
Another thread recently by "Mr. Mindless" accomplished this with the deep 84-89 XJ bearing. I just purchased 90-99 XJ wheel bearings to install in my daily driver Eagle. Those won't require as aggressive boring as the older ones, but they stick out 3/16" further. I believe the XJ rotor makes up this difference and keeps the rotor surface in the same place to use the original caliper brackets.
In the future I would like to do the same thing with a pair of 5 on 5.5 front wheel bearings from a Jeep Grand Cherokee, in order to match up with a 5x5.5 Dana 44 in the rear. Using Jeep CJ rims would also allow for a bigger hole in the center to fit a locking hub assembly. I'm sure there is alot of solutions possible.
-
I personally disable all my axle disconnects with a hose clamp and leave them disconnected.
I'm assuming you meant connected. The only problem with manual hubs is that you have to make sure they are locked before you put any transfer case with a viscous coupling in 4WD. Otherwise you will destroy the VC.
-
might have fun putting manual hubs on an eagle with stock hubs. the 1/2 shaft is splined directly in the hub like fwd cars are. the nut in the center is the stub shaft on the 1/2 shaft. i dont know of anything off the top of my head that could possibly work for manual hubs.
So are the stock XJ/MJ/ZJ shafts. Most Rangers are too. The difference is in the bearing assembly and a locking mechanism inside with a different outer spline.
-
The Eagle CAD vacuum motor is different from Jeep versions, so the Posi-Lock for Jeep applications won't work as a direct bolt-in to an Eagle, but I imagine an Eagle disconnect housing could be modified to accept a cable similar to the one used in the Posi-Lock setup. San Antonio Brake & Clutch can make power control cables, so I know there are other places around the country that can make you a cable similar to the Posi-Lock of you are willing to butcher up one of the Eagle disco shifters.
The Warn/Mile-Marker/Ranger-style D30 5-on-4.5 lug pattern hub conversion available for the XJ/YJ/TJ/ZJ D30 comes with a pair of new outer stub shafts designed to work with manual locking hubs, which have a center selector which you must manually turn to engage the axleshaft to the wheel hub to allow it to transmit power(or disengage to freewheel). You DON'T simply bolt on the hubs - that's why the hub conversions aren't cheap - they come(came, back in 2002) with new outer shafts(which connect to the inner shaft via the cardan-cross-type universal joint), new bearings, new hubs for the bearings, and the lockouts. You also have to have the center hole in the rotors turned to a larger diameter to fit over the hubs, or at least I recall the Warn the conversion I did on my YJ back in 2002 had to have that done. Different outer stub shafts means there is NO WAY a hub conversion could be used for our Eagle's application, since we don't have cardan-joint front axle shafts. Custom built half shafts with the right type of outer retention, then sure, locking hubs could be done.
If you're going through that much trouble trying to get manual-locking hubs or a CAD actuator that works by cable, then you miche as well just do an XJ solid axle swap (non-CAD) and get an off-the-shelf locking hub conversion . . heck, throw in an ARB locker and upgraded inner shafts.
-
I guess I just,assumed that the cad actuator was the same as thee early Cherokee, what with them having overlap in years, and both being Dana 30s, they have to be really close...
-
Cherokee ones are high pinion. Eagle ones are IFS low pinion.
-
so, even tho the other axles are solid axles, their outter hubs where the bearings and all are might still work with the eagles for manual disconnect hubs?? just to make sure im following this right, youro talking about the center hubs you have to turn 1/4 turn to lock/unlock like on my old 70's fords correct?? i guess i havent paid any attention to jeeps. in my book, jeeps are about like cameros, and mustangs. lol. not alot of interest in them.
That's what I've been checking out.
-
I personally disable all my axle disconnects with a hose clamp and leave them disconnected.
I'm assuming you meant connected.
I meant disconnected to the vacuum system. One way to leave the front axle engaged is to plumb constant vacuum to the vacuum diaphragm. It doesn't stay engaged if you just unplug it. That's one more potential source of vacuum leak, so the hose clamp keeps the fork extended and axle engaged without any assistance from the vacuum motor.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/Eagleweb%20Postings/DSCF0846.jpg)
-
Carnuck,
I realize that the xj is a high pinion vs the eagle low & long pinion IFS, but none of that precludes the CAD being the same(It's out on the shaft anyway), for example most YJs are CAD equipped, and they are low pinion
-
Carnuck,
I realize that the xj is a high pinion vs the eagle low & long pinion IFS, but none of that precludes the CAD being the same(It's out on the shaft anyway), for example most YJs are CAD equipped, and they are low pinion
I was going somewhere with that and now I don't remember what it was?
-
I have a 85 and looking at building a 84 diff for the front and running a manual disconnect with a posi lok system. Anyone tryed the jeep one on a eagle axle yet?
I am looking at doing this because my car see so much 2wd time I think the loss of drag of spinning the driveshaft and transfer case would be worth the work. Come winter I can just leave it locked in all the time.
-
Carnuck,
I realize that the xj is a high pinion vs the eagle low & long pinion IFS, but none of that precludes the CAD being the same(It's out on the shaft anyway), for example most YJs are CAD equipped, and they are low pinion
I was going somewhere with that and now I don't remember what it was?
I recall now. Manual locking hub assemblies with bearings from an '80s Ford Bronco II or Ranger
-
I have a 85 and looking at building a 84 diff for the front and running a manual disconnect with a posi lok system. Anyone tryed the jeep one on a eagle axle yet?
I am looking at doing this because my car see so much 2wd time I think the loss of drag of spinning the driveshaft and transfer case would be worth the work. Come winter I can just leave it locked in all the time.
You need VERY synthetic oil to cut friction or the driveshaft will start spinning anyways.
-
Any updated info? how about using a Posi-Lock for a 1983 Chevy S-10? (IRS too)
Regards,
G.A.
-
It’s been years since I hear from you guys. I’m almost done with my AMC Eagle stuff so I can move back to Canada. I have a 2.72 vacuum diff that I considerer doing a cable for along with the clutch and brake pedals. The snow just melted and the stuff is getting loaded up. I’m near Seattle and I sure could have used Brown Betty this past winter. For a 2.72 rear axle someone wanted, Jeep Cherokee and Wagoneer with 6 cyl 999 auto were common (need axles from an M24/20 in an XJ to fit it into) and some YJs too.