AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Transmission Shop => Topic started by: 19835spdsportwagon on August 22, 2014, 09:15:16 PM
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Does anyone know the stock length of the slave cylinder push rod?
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Hi, just measured it for you as I have a new one handy, it is 5&1/4 " long without the plastic end piece
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:occasion14: Thanks profeagle..... I'm trying to narrow down what clutch parts are actually stock pieces, I think the slave is a 'new gen' mfg cylinder with no plastic end piece, as I found the original Girling in a box with a broken bleeder port. The clutch may have the wrong throwout bearing as it looks like the p.o. tried compensating with a home built adjustable slave rod. I've bled up, down, have good pedal pressure now but clutch still releases just off the floor.
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I found two used slave cylinders, one has plastic end, other has homemade adjustment added. Rod with plastic piece measures - 5 & 5/8 "s including end piece.
other one is 6 & 1/2 " Perhaps the new ones don't come with the end tip. I would think that it should be in there.
Have you looked at the clutch pedal pivot pin bracket ? it has a habit of cracking, bending, and then breaking off. It is good insurance to weld a small piece of metal over the open end of bracket. It is easy to remove the pedal . :)
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Have you looked at the clutch pedal pivot pin bracket ? it has a habit of cracking, bending, and then breaking off. It is good insurance to weld a small piece of metal over the open end of bracket. It is easy to remove the pedal . :)
This is a very common problem and it will behave just as if the rod is to short.
The four cylinder Eagles and six cylinder Eagles used the exact same clutch components except that the slave was positioned differently on the different bellhousings. One of the two is about an inch shorter than the other and there was a time when I had both numbers written down. That might be why you have two different sizes sitting around.
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Have you looked at the clutch pedal pivot pin bracket ? it has a habit of cracking, bending, and then breaking off. It is good insurance to weld a small piece of metal over the open end of bracket. It is easy to remove the pedal . :)
This is a very common problem and it will behave just as if the rod is to short.
The four cylinder Eagles and six cylinder Eagles used the exact same clutch components except that the slave was positioned differently on the different bellhousings. One of the two is about an inch shorter than the other and there was a time when I had both numbers written down. That might be why you have two different sizes sitting around.
That's right, a common problem for sure.
All my parts have come from 6 cyl . wagons so no chance of having 4 cyl . parts, heck, I have never seen or heard of one locally. The longer rod has a brass pipe fitting added to it . And oh ! a low pedal can be symptomatic of a clutch that has seen better days. :) :) PS: I have a lot of used parts available .
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Thank you guys, I will look at the pedal bracket also.
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I'm having the same issue and after finding a new master, and building a reservoir we finally got some clutch action , BUT the car still grinds when putting it into gear. While looking through the boot at the throw out bearing, I could see there was about a 1/4" gap. And when the petal was pushed to the floor the bearing JUST touches the presume plate. The rod I have is 5 3/4" long and it's an 82 sx4 with a 6cly 5 speed. Can anyone verify this is corect be for I have to pull the trany to get the arm out? Or do I have to pull the trany? !?
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Eureka!!! Someone had put a return spring on the shift fork, and it would pull the slave cylinder all the way back In. I took it off,and the first pump pushed it up to the pressure plate and the second disengaged the clutch!!! YAY! ! Now I'm trying to figure a way of securing the clutch rod to the shift fork. I'm afraid it will rattle loose.....
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That's good news.