AMC Eagle Den Forum

The Shop => Axle / Differential => Topic started by: The Dark Side of Will on December 15, 2018, 06:38:30 PM

Title: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on December 15, 2018, 06:38:30 PM
After seeing & hearing about the way a friend's H3 Alpha w/off-road package works with a dual factory e-lockers, and the fact that it's a 5000# vehicle with an Isuzu 7.x" front diff, I decided to throw caution to the wind and go for an e-locker in my Eagle's front end.

I ordered a 19817-010 from Summit. This is an Eaton E-Locker 4 for Dana 30 with 3.54 and numerically lower ratios with 27 spline axles.
I only later learned that it's an E-Locker 4, which means that it has 4 spider gears.
I bet it doesn't work with the Eagle 2.35 gears...

I pulled the cover off the 3.54 Dana 30 I'd *JUST* overhauled (in this thread: http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=43409.0 ) with zero miles on it and popped the Poodle ring off the left stub axle and pulled it out. I started inspecting things to figure out how the whole shebang would go together. I had known before this that I'd have to remove the bearings from the stock carrier. I didn't think there would be a way to remove them without destroying them, and there wasn't. I'll just have to get new carrier bearings.

Then I noticed that there would be NO WAY to install the poodle ring into the stub shaft once the stub shaft is inserted into the E-Locker. Ooops.

Brother Google informed me that Jeep never used poodle rings or e-clips on the left axle. The Dana 30 was only ever used as a front axle, so it always had steering and front hub hardware holding the left axle in place. Jeep used clips on the intermediate shaft in the right side of the diff, but only as an assembly aid. The intermediate shaft goes to the disconnect box, where the outer axle pilots into it. The right outer axle is retained by the steering and hub hardware just like the left axle is. Jeep eventually altered their assembly process such that they didn't need the clip on the intermediate shaft and left it out.

Ok, so I can safely leave the clip off my intermediate shaft, BUT the Eagle stub axle REQUIRES the clip. Without the clip, the plunge in the inner CV joint could allow the stub axle to slide out far enough to disengage from the splines or the outer bearing or even the seal and dump my gear oil.

I figured out how to take the unit apart. The ring gear flange is split in its own plane. The piece with the right carrier bearing journal is a light press into the main housing. There are a pair of torx 6x1.0 screws that make sure the two halves don't separate. After removing those I noticed two other 6x1.0 holes that did not have mates in the other piece. I correctly concluded that these were for jacking screws to split the two halves.

Once you know that, taking the thing apart is fairly straightforward.

Here's the E-Locker next to my assembly:

(https://i.imgur.com/pTWGLuH.jpg?1)

Here's the lube hole in the side of the main housing, and through it the tiny gap between the cross-pin block and the side gear.

(https://i.imgur.com/rEMZOdq.jpg?1)

Here's the "back" of the unit. You can see both the retention screw holes and the jacking screw holes.

(https://i.imgur.com/a9MlC8A.jpg?1)

Jacking screw operation... easy enough.

(https://i.imgur.com/4rjszVH.jpg?1)

First step of disassembly... On the right is the side plate and the side gear thrust washer. The marcel spring that keeps it from locking unless you want it to is at the top of the stack on the left.

(https://i.imgur.com/O3eJX8c.jpg?1)

Marcel spring and side gear now on the right. On the left you can see the locking collar (darker gold), the four spider gears and the cross-shaft block (lighter gold) that supports the two stub cross-pins off the main cross pin.

(https://i.imgur.com/Xd1VevS.jpg?1)

A closer look at the locking collar and right side gear

(https://i.imgur.com/xz9m2Z6.jpg?1)

A closer look at the 4 spiders and the cross pin block. You can ALSO see the three pins that push the locking collar into place.

(https://i.imgur.com/q6yPEZE.jpg?1)

Pulling the three screws in the cross shaft block results in being able to do this:

(https://i.imgur.com/h6oWkMK.jpg?1)

And now we get to the good stuff.
This is the left side gear. You can see the 8 slots that drive the dogs on the locking collar. In three of them are holes for the pins that move the locking collar. You can also see the four lubrication holes, one of which I pointed out above. Since there are three pins on uneven angles and four lube holes, one of the lube holes does not have pins on either side of it. It's the lube hole on the left in this photo. The cross-pin holes are at the "corners" 45 degrees off the lube holes.

(https://i.imgur.com/6SF5Aoo.jpg?1)

Since there are no pins to interfere with, I can SLOT that hole in order to have access to install the E-Clip into the stub axle.

(https://i.imgur.com/4QRos9E.jpg?1)

That's the biggest mod, but not the only one that has to be made.
I also need to cut a counter bore into the cross-pin block in order to allow the stub axle to slide all the way in until the tip of it touches the cross-pin (not the cervix! :wink: ) The cross-pins are the same diamter at 0.680 between the stock and the Eaton. I will also need to have an access notch machined into the cross-pin block in order to be able to remove the clip.

ALSO, I needed new carrier bearings, since I'd destroy the old ones getting them off. CarQuest could get them, but only had BCA. I first did this job with a Timken bearing/seal kit from Yukon, so I checked their website. It didn't look like they sold just the carrier bearings, so being old school I called them. After explaining my situation, the guy confirmed what Eaton part number I had, then told me that the spigots for the carrier bearings are larger diameter on the Eaton. That means it uses completely different carrier bearings, both cup and cone. Summit did *NOT* mention that in their product information. He had the right bearings in stock in Timken and sent me a pair, which arrived this week.

I won't be able to drop this off with my machinist friend until next weekend, so I went on to other projects. The big remaining question is what I'll have to do to be able to get any kind of clip, be it poodle ring or conventional e-clip in between the adjacent spider gears, AND how I'll get it back out once it's in there.

I'm also thinking of putting it back together with an upgraded intermediate shaft, since I'm going to all this trouble to install the locker.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: eaglefreek on December 17, 2018, 06:20:10 PM
Wow, that's a lot of work. I remember Mick in Wyoming used a modified Dana 35 locker up front somehow. There were Dana 30 rear axles. Volvo had them in quite a few vehicles and they were also available in some Jeep Commandos and some 80's Ford Aerostars.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on January 13, 2019, 09:33:10 PM
Wow, that's a lot of work. I remember Mick in Wyoming used a modified Dana 35 locker up front somehow. There were Dana 30 rear axles. Volvo had them in quite a few vehicles and they were also available in some Jeep Commandos and some 80's Ford Aerostars.

Is there a build thread here?

//

I got the carrier and cross-pin block back from the machinist.

(https://i.imgur.com/bmhkpBe.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/j1wZUQe.jpg?1)

The stub axle goes all the way in to touch the pins now.
The gap is still the only space available for a clip. I will probably have to widen it to fit a clip into it. I did not have the chance this weekend to get in there with a feeler gauge to find out how much the gear or the block or both will have to be faced in order to open up enough room for the clip to go in.

I'm also thinking that I'll have to notch one tooth on each spider gear to open up a path for the clip to go in. I already knew I'd have to mill a notch in the side of the pin block for tool access to the clip.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on January 13, 2019, 10:23:30 PM
Here are a couple more photos

The outboard face of the groove is just a smidge proud of the inboard face of the gear, so I could pull the stub out that little bit in order to seat the clip against the gear.

(https://i.imgur.com/gFcIsmt.jpg?1)

The stub would also have to slide outboard just a little bit from the cross-pin block in order to have the inboard face of the groove flush with the face of the cross-pin block.

(https://i.imgur.com/qhBpnZx.jpg?1)

So I really need to get some feeler gauges into the groove and get some clip dimensions from McMaster-Carr.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on January 14, 2019, 08:52:02 AM
Excellent! I think McMaster 98808A405 can work for this application.

(https://www.mcmaster.com/mva/library/20110321/98808a405l.gif)
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: eaglefreek on January 16, 2019, 08:05:22 PM


Is there a build thread here?



One of those things that got lost in the Big Delete.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on February 20, 2019, 07:53:33 PM
Umm... well that sucks?

//

Step by step modifying the e-Locker to accept the E-clip for the left stub axle.

Here's the clip in place:

(https://i.imgur.com/g4R9evm.jpg?1)

Had to face down the annulus previously shown on the pin block:

(https://i.imgur.com/OnLSJKC.jpg?1)

And add a spacer ring to the side gear. This required boring the ID of the annular ring on the side gear just a little bit. The gear is forged and thus that internal diameter had some draught to it which prevented a constant diameter ring from being pressed in.

(https://i.imgur.com/kNmwJMx.jpg?1)

The gear on the stub:

(https://i.imgur.com/NKojo1I.jpg?1)

Gear, stub and clip installed into housing:

(https://i.imgur.com/lRH6DGM.jpg?1)


Next step: Tool access notch in the pin block, slight expansion of the slot in the side of the housing, cutting slots in the spider gear teeth (!) for the clip to slide through.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on June 14, 2019, 11:09:40 AM
I finally got OnShape customer support to find me a workaround for a bug I found (that they won't admit is a bug) and was able to model this up.
Because the pin block is very hard, milling this won't work, it'll have to be EDM'd.

(https://i.imgur.com/0cWA0VH.jpg)
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: amarshall on June 15, 2019, 03:24:33 PM
I have no idea what half of this means, but I’m still fascinated!  Looks like you are making some progress, keep at it.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on June 17, 2019, 12:04:05 PM
It might not be super obvious to follow.
Evolution of the pin block:
The pin block is the thing in the middle with the three screw holes across the face

(https://i.imgur.com/q6yPEZE.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/h6oWkMK.jpg?1)

The back side, without screw holes used to be flat, but then I did this:

(https://i.imgur.com/bmhkpBe.jpg?1)

Here's how it fits the end of the axle... since you can't see the groove for the clip, some material needs to be faced off the bottom of the block

(https://i.imgur.com/qhBpnZx.jpg?1)

Here is the bottom side after having some material faced off.

(https://i.imgur.com/OnLSJKC.jpg?1)

And here you can see that there is now enough clearance to install the spring clip.

(https://i.imgur.com/g4R9evm.jpg?1)

Here's the next step, although only a rendering for now. The notch in the edge of the part will give clearance for a tool to remove the spring clip.

(https://i.imgur.com/0cWA0VH.jpg)
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: Vgrizzw on August 12, 2019, 12:02:33 PM
Good work! I’m following! It seems at this point an e-clip with a “tongue” would let a tool grab it. Maybe a tongue with a hole so it could be hooked. Then it’d clear the pin block and spider gears. Also, once all this is complete, let me know where to send my locker to have it modded!  ;)
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on March 07, 2020, 11:23:42 AM
So the prototype machinist recommended I have this EDM'd because it's hardened.

The machine shop sup at work said he had a cutter that could do it, but he'd just need some time when the boss isn't around, etc.
7 months later it was still on his desk.
So I snagged it and took it to the EDM place.
Two weeks later, tada.
Ooooooh, shiny!
The surface finish in the cut is REALLY good... but that's what EDM does. Per my model, the minimum distance from the notch to the pin bores is only 0.025 or so... pretty good fixturing to cut that without screwing it up.

(https://i.imgur.com/ZALVZba.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/9otQKRA.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/BFjbqnt.jpg?1)
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on March 10, 2020, 12:29:00 PM
Here's the tool notch... can just barely see the "tang" inside the poodle ring.

(https://i.imgur.com/0zxSMZU.jpg?1)

Here's the edge of the poodle ring, all the way up (stub axle pushed all the way in)

(https://i.imgur.com/TkPjbdv.jpg?1)

And all the way down (stub axle pulled all the way out)

(https://i.imgur.com/gafwBVI.jpg?1)

I was able to use a hook tool--a cotter pin puller previously modified for something else--to reach in through the access slot in the housing and pull the poodle ring out. That was my goal, so... AWESOME!

I then carved a slot through one of the spider gears until I was able to slide the poodle ring through it. That slot turned out a lot bigger than I had been visualizing... so I'm coming to terms with that before I carve up another one next weekend.

(https://i.imgur.com/OnOs7Qb.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/UkabIYJ.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/acQ6uNp.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/KrDKc2b.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/fPN2NDi.jpg?1)
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on March 13, 2020, 10:45:25 AM
ACKSHULLY... I was sitting on the can this morning--which is where all my good ideas come from anyway--and remembered that older VW stuff (like MkIII and the 02A transmission) uses an expanding taper plug to lock the output flange into the transmission. I'd have to drill, bore, ream & slot the splines on the output flange, but that may be a cleaner alternative than slotting the gears. It would still require some of the lathe mods I did to the pin block, but would not require the tool notch. And I have to make a taper plug. Interdasting.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: vangremlin on March 13, 2020, 11:33:31 AM
I don't understand all that you are doing but I am certainly impressed by it!  Keep up the good work!
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on March 31, 2020, 09:11:28 AM
I don't understand all that you are doing but I am certainly impressed by it!  Keep up the good work!

I'm trying to adapt an Eaton E-Locker4 to the Eagle Dana 30 IFS. The E-Locker4 has four spider gears for strength, but that leaves no space to insert the poodle ring that retains the left stub axle. Without that poodle ring, the stub axle just slides out, which would be bad if it happened in the car.

I was trying to modify the Eaton to allow use of the poodle ring. I figured out how and finally got there, but the "cost" in terms of cutting a slot in the gears is too high.

So I remembered I saw a VW system for retaining stub axles that uses a taper lock. I'm going to try modifying the Eagle stub axle to have a taper lock.

To that end I found these and ordered some to play with: https://www.bmikarts.com/Right-Taper-Nut-M8-For-Steel-Steering-Tie-Rod_p_30375.html

(https://www.bmikarts.com/assets/images/KW_K341.jpg)

Maybe the MFG can tell me what the taper is... but if not I can measure it. This and a long socket cap screw should make the taper lock idea doable.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on March 31, 2020, 09:19:07 AM
Good work! I’m following! It seems at this point an e-clip with a “tongue” would let a tool grab it. Maybe a tongue with a hole so it could be hooked. Then it’d clear the pin block and spider gears. Also, once all this is complete, let me know where to send my locker to have it modded!  ;)

The poodle ring has a natural loop in it for a tool to hook in order to remove it from the shaft. I actually got to the point at which I could do that, BUT I have to cut slots in two spider gears to do so... And once I actually saw how big the slot has to be to do that, it's obvious that's not a good course of action.

Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: vangremlin on March 31, 2020, 01:44:51 PM
Thanks for the simplified explanation and good luck!
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on May 13, 2020, 10:27:10 AM
The taper is 4°16’15”, which comes out to 4.271 degrees. That's not really close to any of the normal tapers...
It looks like it's designed to be a 4.25° taper

Code: [Select]
Nominal     Degrees       Deviation
4°16’15”    4.270833333   0             (what the shop QC guy measured with CMM)
4.25        4.25          0.020833333
0.037/inch  4.23795447    0.032878864   (what my dad and I measured mechanically)
7/8"/ft     4.175967665   0.094865668
4mm/50mm    4.581220085   0.310386752
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: mick on May 21, 2020, 10:55:05 AM
I am impressed dude! You are taking the time to think this out properly. I approve!

I am running a late model D35 Lock-Right in the stock D30 carrier. I ordered a used one off Ebay and the seller said it came out of his '94 Wrangler. When I asked what the bill of lading was on his axle he didn't know. So bought it anyways and found it wouldn't fit my AMC15 carrier. Then I remembered that the D30, AMC15, and D35 are all 27 spline by like 1.300" shaft diameter. So I took a side gear from the Lock-Right and slid it over a spare front shaft and if fit as expected. I then put the side gear in a D30 carrier and it fit. I then measured the inside dimensions of the D30 and D35 carriers from thrust face to thrust face and found they were the same. I then had my dad who is a machinist cut C-clip grooves in my D30 shafts. BAM! Locked front.

I would much prefer a selectable locker but oh well. At the time OX didn't make one for the 3.55 and down D30. I have several OX's and really like them.

The Eaton is is a LSD when unlocked right? Is that what you are after?
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on June 20, 2020, 02:57:08 PM
I am impressed dude! You are taking the time to think this out properly. I approve!

I am running a late model D35 Lock-Right in the stock D30 carrier. I ordered a used one off Ebay and the seller said it came out of his '94 Wrangler. When I asked what the bill of lading was on his axle he didn't know. So bought it anyways and found it wouldn't fit my AMC15 carrier. Then I remembered that the D30, AMC15, and D35 are all 27 spline by like 1.300" shaft diameter. So I took a side gear from the Lock-Right and slid it over a spare front shaft and if fit as expected. I then put the side gear in a D30 carrier and it fit. I then measured the inside dimensions of the D30 and D35 carriers from thrust face to thrust face and found they were the same. I then had my dad who is a machinist cut C-clip grooves in my D30 shafts. BAM! Locked front.

I would much prefer a selectable locker but oh well. At the time OX didn't make one for the 3.55 and down D30. I have several OX's and really like them.

The Eaton is is a LSD when unlocked right? Is that what you are after?

Interesting interchange. So the D35 uses 27 spline axles and the same side and spider gears as the D35? Interesting.
This whole fiasco started because there's no room in the E-Locker 4 (4 spiders) to install any kind of clip to retain the left stub axle.
The Eaton is an open diff until I flip the switch, then it locks.

I've finally cracked the code on the Eagle D30 E-Locker

(https://i.imgur.com/GtTGWeP.jpg?1)

The magic part is the little puck in the foreground. That is the ONLY thing that has to be made from scratch for this to work. The stub axle has to have its end cut off, be gun-drilled and have a counterbore cut in each end.

(https://i.imgur.com/SHfTNSX.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/Gts0dii.jpg?1)

The socket cap bolt goes through from the outside of the output flange. Not shown is a Parker sealing washer that goes under the bolt head to keep the gear oil inside the diff. The socket head fits into the aforementioned counterbore in the outside face of the flange.

(https://i.imgur.com/ctwMNZR.jpg?1)

To install, disassemble the E-Locker to this level--that is, almost all the way.

(https://i.imgur.com/BFUaeWp.jpg?1)

Drop the puck face down into the factory counterbore in the gear face

(https://i.imgur.com/HpwAXy9.jpg?1)

Assemble the cross-pins. The pin block is upside down because the side that's down in this photo is the side I have not modified. Having the umodified side facing the puck allows me to accurately measure the clearance remaining between the puck and the pin block. This clearance is 0.022". This means that the output flange, when installed, will be able to slide in/out by 0.022". This is ok because the stock amount it could slide was ~0.040". Spider gears were not included as this is just a demo

(https://i.imgur.com/LuftHvK.jpg?1)

Insert the stub axle, then install the bolt and tighten it to 15 ftlbs... Voi-la! The stub axle is retained.

(https://i.imgur.com/7zTULUx.jpg?1)
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: DAVE on June 22, 2020, 09:37:55 PM
I would recommend some kind of thread locker
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on July 05, 2020, 04:01:20 PM
Hmm... I didn't get a response notification.

I would recommend some kind of thread locker

I don't think I'd do that. There's absolutely nothing in the use case that's trying to unscrew the bolt.

There's nothing but friction preventing the puck from turning against the end of the axle. That's fine for tightening, as I was able to see 15 ftlbs on the torque wrench while holding the output flange by hand. It did slip a little bit along the way. I thought that if the puck turns against the end of the axle while trying to loosen the bolt, just hit it with an impact wrench.

Using threadlocker may guarantee that you'd have to disassemble the diff to get the bolt out. Once the bolt cracked loose, the extra friction that the threadlocker puts in the threads would just turn the puck, and an impact wrench probably wouldn't be able to get it out.

In thinking about that case, I see that having the bolt head at the bottom of the counterbore would make that hard to deal with, so I may change up the counterbore to a countersink in order to allow access with a prying tool under the bolt head. This would allow the mechanic to put some friction against the puck to be able to unscrew the bolt.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on July 17, 2020, 10:56:24 AM
I didn't do it on this one, but if someone wanted to pin the puck to the axle shaft or dutch key it to the gear, that would work fine with threadlocker. I'm just going by the KISS principle.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on July 27, 2020, 11:23:46 AM
So NAAAAAAAAATURALY this unit has the wrong flange offset for my Eagle 3.54 gears.

I *THINK* AMC moved the pinion over in the housing by the difference in flange offset between the high and low ratio carriers. This lets them use the 2.73, 3.06 and 3.54 gears they already had, but with the 3.73+ carrier. The 3.54- carrier then is only used with the 2.35 gears they used in the later 258 powered cars. Feh.

So I'm going to snag a 19818-020 and see if that fits.

Anyone want a 19817-010 for your Eagle? Brand new, never been installed.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on August 25, 2020, 08:42:44 AM
18918 locker arrived at my dad's place today; I'll get to play with it this weekend.
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on August 31, 2020, 10:13:42 AM
Played with the 19818 locker over the weekend.
I pulled the ring gear off the AMC-Unique carrier. The ID chamfer on the ring gear pilot bore is ~0.100 deep, which make things a little more difficult.

I took the three units into the QC lab to measure the flange offset using a height gauge.
3.54-: 1.820 (Spec from RockAuto is 1.810)
3.73+: 1.938 (+0.118 from 3.54-; spec is 1.943)
AMC:  2.149 (+0.211 from 3.73+; don't have a spec)

On both Eatons, the ring gear locating journal looks 0.320 long.

Soooooo... 0.320" (journal length) - 0.211" (difference in flange offset) = 0.109 (overlap of ring gear on locating journal)

0.109 overlap initially sounds good, EXCEPT that the ID chamfer on the ring gear is 0.100 deep. So maybe there's 0.010 overlap, maybe there isn't because +/-0.010 is about the best confidence I have in some of those measurements, as I was eyeballing edges next to the calipers.

HOWEVER, the AMC carrier was installed with 0.030 & 0.007 (0.037 total) shims on the gear side and 0.028, 2x 0.010 & 0.005 (0.053 total) on the far side. If I drop the far side shims down by 0.040 to 0.013 or so and increase the gear side shims by the same amount, that will move the ring gear flange 0.040 closer to the ring gear, which increases the overlap from 0.010 +/-0.010 to 0.050+/-0.010... which is workable.

That means that I can make a 0.170-0.180 ring gear spacer, which can be ground from a 3/16" laser cutting.

ETA: Because I'm adding a ring gear spacer and the stock ring gear bolts are 7/8" long, I can put the assembly back together with 1" ring gear bolts, which are hella easier to find than 7/8" bolts.

(https://i.imgur.com/sR0vsT1.jpg?1)

(https://i.imgur.com/4mMjeNf.jpg?1)
Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on September 27, 2020, 12:55:45 PM
I've been thinking that since I already modified the 3.54- Eaton, I could modify it a little more and use it, then sell the 3.73+ as new in box (or maybe even return it, although I doubt it's returnable at this point).

Sooo... Some A$$hole at Eaton made the surface between the ring gear pilot journal and the "intermediate step" concave, so it's a PITA to measure. There's another curve from the intermediate step down to the main OD of the case.

The ring gear pilot OD is 4.500
The intermediate step OD is 4.450.
The diffence in ring gear offset is 0.339. The Eatons are 0.005 larger between the bearing seats than the AMC, so subtract 0.003 from the left shim and the ring gear spacer to get a spacer thickness of 0.336 to use with the 3.54- Eaton.
To the 0.336 ring gear spacer, add the 0.100 height of the ring gear ID chamfer.
The freshly turned portion of the case would need to be at least 0.436 tall.
The intermediate step is ~0.800 from the flange, so extending the reduced OD out to the intermediate step will be exactly the right thing to do.

Then I wrap the diff in 0.025 shim stock to install the spacer and ring gear.

It also looks like turning down to 4.460 would extend the new surface far enough to locate the gear on top of the 0.336 spacer, and only require 0.020 shim stock.

The circumference of a 4.450" circle is just under 14".
McMaster has 0.020 & 0.025 shim stock in 8"x12" sheets for <$20 in 18-8 SS or brass. Since I'd have to cut it, brass might be easier to keep the cut edge flat.
McMaster also has 3/4" and 1" wide shim tape at 0.004" thick, consisting of 0.002" 18-8 SS and 0.002" adhesive. Four to five turns of that would get to the right diameter. It comes 9 feet (about twice what I need) to the roll for $10-$12 depending on width. The nice thing about the tape is that I don't have to worry about it working its way out and I don't have to deal with burrs from cutting it on every edge. I'm not sure how precisely four turns of it would stack up, though.

Title: Re: Installing an Eaton E-Locker into an Eagle Dana 30
Post by: The Dark Side of Will on December 06, 2021, 05:18:38 PM
I stumbled across this purely by accident recently:

https://www.justdifferentials.com/Dana-35-Dodge-IFS-Front-Nitro-Stub-Axle-p/axd47067.htm

It's a 4340 output flange for the Dana 35 used in '97-'99 Dodge Dakotas. It has 27 splines, like the Eagle Dana 30 IFS.

(https://cdn3.volusion.com/ndyvj.kzbtr/v/vspfiles/photos/AXD47067-2.jpg?v-cache=1498046030)

(https://cdn3.volusion.com/ndyvj.kzbtr/v/vspfiles/photos/AXD47067-3.jpg?v-cache=1498046030)

I don't know if it will work in an Eagle diff or not, but might be an option.