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  • October 23, 2021, 12:26:49 PM

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Eagle Sightings / Re: AMCs in the media
« Last post by Still Pat on Today at 10:20:56 AM »
Cheech & Chong - Up in Smoke, CHP (LAPD?) uses Matadors.

& Chong
Axle / Differential / Re: Spiders, driveshafts: modern Best Practices, grease?
« Last post by Canoe on Yesterday at 01:26:43 PM »
In reading through the various grease specs, most have a surprisingly limited Ambient Range and Operating Range for temperature. To get coverage on the low limit, you lose on the upper limit. For most N.A. environments it works, except for the low limit with most greases. Some typical limits:
  • If you need down to -40 F, the upper ambient is ~95F, operating limit ~300 F.
  • If lower is -30 F, the upper ambient is ~104 F, operating limit ~300 F.
  • If lower is -22 F, the upper ambient is ~120 F, operating limit is still ~300 F.
However, with the rise in the daily highs we're seeing around North America, there's a problem. If you get a grease that is rated to do the job properly in the cold temperatures, you can easily be facing high temperatures that are above the limit of your grease. There are many places where the cold season daily lows are regularly below -30 F, but the warm season highs were often over 100 F & approached 105 F, and now there are periods over 100 F and highs are sometimes even over 110 F.

If you're just putting around in your car, likely O.K.?
If you're driving it so you're putting a load on it, O.K.?
If it's heavy equipment or industrial, where there are high peak or continuous loads, it's looking like to avoid premature equipment wear and failure, they're going to need to go to a wider range grease (is such possible for those loads?), or regrease for cold vs. hot seasons.

'78 - '79 VW I-4 121 cid Engine / Re: VW EA831 rebuild ongoing near Seattle
« Last post by vangremlin on Yesterday at 11:33:36 AM »
We had a 78 Gremlin with this engine in it.  It had been sitting for 6-8 years when we got it.  We did not have to rebuild the engine as we were fortunate enough to get in running with minimal effort. 

It seems like there were a couple hoses that we couldn't find and we maybe had to get by with what was there or fabricate a couple different hoses together because they had different sizes on the ends.

Good luck!
Axle / Differential / Re: Spiders, driveshafts: modern Best Practices, grease?
« Last post by AMC of Houston on October 21, 2021, 02:07:11 AM »
I have a few tubs of that!  Use it in my wheel bearings.  Can't remember where I bought it tho - been a while - mail ordered 4 tubs from somewhere.
Axle / Differential / Re: Spiders, driveshafts: modern Best Practices, grease?
« Last post by Canoe on October 20, 2021, 05:26:50 PM »
May have a winner - if I can find it...
Calcium sulphonate based - compatible with Lithium Complex grease. But spec sheet says
"Although Red Line CV-2 is compatible with small amounts of many petroleum-based greases, it is always good lubrication practice to thoroughly clean out the old grease to eliminate abrasive particles and to minimize the possibility of grease incompatibility."

Spec Sheet is a blurb, not a table of specifications...
Specs at their site under OEM Compatibility.

Load Wear Index 71.1
NLGI Grade #2
NLGI Service GC-LB
Thickener Non-Soap
Fluid Type Thermally-stable synthetic
Useful Temperature Range -100°F to 500°F
Color Red
Dropping Point, >800°F
Load Wear Index 71.2
4-Ball Wear Scar Diameter (Red), 40 Kg 0.46 mm
Water Washout @ 105°F 1%
Evaporation Loss, 22 hrs @ 350°F 4%
Oil Separation, 30 hrs @ 350°F 5%
Oxidation Stability, 500 hrs @210°F, ∆psi 1.75 (12 kPa)
Rust Test, ASTM D1743 Pass

Recommended by a guy who uses it for his Defender. Got tired of prior greases getting washed out with river and creek crossings.

Outperforms the best conventional or synthetic greases and lubes
Withstands extreme temperature and pressure in wheel bearings, U-joints and high-angle CV Joints
Excellent high-temp stability, extreme-pressure protection and water resistance
Used in a variety of applications with operating temps from -100°F to 500°F
Strong resistance to oxidation and corrosion, low evaporation and oil separation with a minimum effect on rubber seals
Contains an organic moly (red moly) for chassis lubrication and high temp/high speed industrial equipment
Synthetic fluidity allows increases in bearing life up to 200%
Will darken after high-temp use-not detrimental to performance

Axle / Differential / Re: Spiders, driveshafts: modern Best Practices, grease?
« Last post by Canoe on October 20, 2021, 04:55:46 PM »
To avoid having to clean anything out completely, I want to stick with a Lithium Complex grease. One that is NLGI #2 GC-LB.

Reading the various specs, I've discovered how many are great for cold temperatures. Only those temperatures where I am are a very warm day in winter. Technically, I should be getting a grease rated down to -35 C (-31 F). Why do the local stores here sell greases that are only rated down to ~-5 F?

Mystik JT-6 Synthetic Blend Hi-Temp No.2 is rated for -33 C.
Valvoline Full Synthetic Moly-fortified No. 2, amazon says is -60°F Valvoline says is -40 F. (poor washout - apparently the moly is soluable too, not MOS2)

Plus the frustration of which greases that are actually available. Instead of researching to find the grease I want, I have to find out what greases are available, then get their specs. Nope. On to another one.

And some specs won't tell you what the Oil Separation is. Or the cold minimum. Or the Water Washout. Or ____.   

Some are available from Amazon, but for $28. Same product from a local store, if they have it, $4. None within 3 hours have it.

My lower ball joints always seem to rust away. Hard-to-find/$ to replace.
Found this
"CAT chassis greases are available in full syn varieties to cover different (high and low) temp ranges and are calcium sulphonate based, much better for water resistance, water washout and corrosion resistance than any lithium complex based grease and contain 5% MOS2 for high load/low speed situations, as well as being suitable for high speed use."
I have seen steal lines fail but it's always been when they're severely covered in rust and the cars they were on came from somewhere that uses a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. If you don't see any really rusty areas or even any rust per se you should be fine also you can pick up uunbent brake line at parts stores (it comes in various lengths and sizes) and a small tubing bender for not a lot of money and make your own you can also get the flaring tool there as well.
Axle / Differential / Re: Spiders, driveshafts: modern Best Practices, grease?
« Last post by AMC of Houston on October 19, 2021, 08:54:14 PM »
I use good old Swepco 101 in my CV's, U-joints, ball joints, etc.
I would inspect the lines and see if there are any obvious issues.  My Kammback had been sitting for about 16 years when I got it, got the engine running and replaced the typical brake stuff but didn't mess with the steel lines.

Remember, before about 67/68 most cars, including Mustangs, came with a single reservoir master cylinder.  If a line failed anywhere, all the brakes were lost.  The Eagles have dual res master cylinders, so if a line fails, you'll still have half the brake system working. 
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