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  • March 28, 2024, 03:57:57 AM

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Author Topic: Carter BBD Rebuild  (Read 12965 times)

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Offline ejw4x4

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Carter BBD Rebuild
« on: August 28, 2006, 04:03:22 PM »
Are there any tricks or tips to ease the process of rebuilding the Carter BBD Carbs? I'm rebuilding my #8383 Carb and i'm completely new to rebuilding a carb.
Thanx
EJW
« Last Edit: September 08, 2006, 04:53:50 PM by ejw4x4 »
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Offline malcolmm

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2006, 09:00:56 PM »
When you get the rebuild kit there is an inst. book in there. It helped me out a lot and the carb break down in the Eaglepedia was good to have on hand too. Oh yea, watch all the little parts too. They like to wander off. This was my first rebuild too so don't let any thing discourage you, it can be done by us first timers. Just watch all your parts and how they go together. Malcolm ;D

Offline IowaEagle

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2006, 09:10:23 PM »
And, really clean stuff well! 
Click for Toledo, IA Forecast" border="0" height="100" width="150   


Not a Jeep.  Not a Car.  Its an AMC Eagle!

1982 Eagle SX/4 Sport;
1980 Concord DL;
1970 Ambassador 2 Dr HT, SST
2002 Hyundai Santa Fe;
2008 Jeep Patriot Sport - Freedom Drive II

Offline Mac

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2006, 09:22:32 PM »
The very first carb I ever rebuilt was a BBD...

Wasn't too bad...  Like Malcolm said...  The instructions in the kit are very helpful...
The TSM helped out also...

The advise I would give:  Take a few pics of the carb before you disassemble it...
It'll really help figuring out which direction all the little linkages go when you go to
put it back together...

Oh!!  And check for wear in the throttle shaft bushings!!
If the bushings in the main shaft that runs thru the base of the carb have a lot of
play in them, it will mean that you'll have a vacuum leak...
Even after a rebuild!

That's been my biggest problem with these carbs...  finding shafts that aren't worn,
and finding bases that have good bushings...

Offline IowaEagle

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2006, 09:24:58 PM »
Thanks for the tips Mac!
Click for Toledo, IA Forecast" border="0" height="100" width="150   


Not a Jeep.  Not a Car.  Its an AMC Eagle!

1982 Eagle SX/4 Sport;
1980 Concord DL;
1970 Ambassador 2 Dr HT, SST
2002 Hyundai Santa Fe;
2008 Jeep Patriot Sport - Freedom Drive II

Offline ejw4x4

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2006, 10:15:16 PM »
Totally, thanks everyone i'm gonna give it go. I'll try to submit some pictures of the process.
Thanks again,
EJW.
87' Eagle Wagon (SOLD)
94' Camaro Z28 grocery getter
66' Satellite (GTX clone project) 440/727

Offline IowaEagle

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2006, 10:21:47 PM »
Pix would be nice so other folks can see that it can be done with patience and instructions.
Click for Toledo, IA Forecast" border="0" height="100" width="150   


Not a Jeep.  Not a Car.  Its an AMC Eagle!

1982 Eagle SX/4 Sport;
1980 Concord DL;
1970 Ambassador 2 Dr HT, SST
2002 Hyundai Santa Fe;
2008 Jeep Patriot Sport - Freedom Drive II

Offline Canoe

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #7 on: August 29, 2006, 01:20:08 AM »
I'm right in the middle of my BBD rebuild. Fun isn't it? I'd better be having fun.

As to the throttle body shaft, I've got no play in the non-spring/screw side, but slight play in the spring/resin-plastic-spacer side, but no leak that was obvious ( I don't think anything could have got past all that grease and dirt). The resin-plastic spacer looks "hammered" on the side next to the throttle body, even though it appears that the shaft can't move back and forth. There is a significant space between the resin-plastic spacer and the throttle body, and at the other end between the throttle body and the control tab that fits on first. I think I have a fix for leaking throttle bodies. Remember, that's I THINK!

Teflon washers on the shaft.

The Teflon is soft enough that it should wear to fit perfectly and deform/intent/etc. to fill voids. From memory, it'll take a .6mm washer on the tab side and 1.5mm to 2mm washer at the spring side (and with an outside diameter under that of the resin-plastic spacer to ensure it doesn't get torn up by the spring.

I'm assuming that by either polishing the throttle-body/washer contact points or by using double washers or possibly triple washers (with a non-Teflon washer in the middle - dis-similar plastic-to-plastic contact to ensure no plastic-to-plastic welding), that I can completely fill the space and count on the low static and dynamic friction of Teflon to have no practical affect on the movement forces of the throttle.

I can't think of why this wouldn't work. Am I missing something?

Most commercial plastic supply shops have Teflon sheets. A leather hole punch, wordworking- forstner (not toothed) or brad-point drill bits should work fine to make washers from the Teflon. I have some Teflon kicking around. I'll have to check sizes.

I'm going to try and I'll post the results. If this works, it'll give us a lot more usable throttle bodies.

Actually, for an extremely worn throttle body, why not drill it out oversize and have a Teflon rod machined into a flat capped plug that is drilled out for the shaft? And rather than custom machine something, the plastic supply shops may even have an existing Teflon part for something that can be drilled out to take the shaft. If there was a lot of force involved, Delrin AF would be a better plastic to use for this replacement bushing, but you'd still want a Teflon washer for a seal, or would you? Interesting. Delrin AF is a hard resin plastic (Delrin) with either powder (particle) or oriented strands of Teflon (the AF, or anti-friction part). It is very wear resistant against steel (the harder the better, and lower friction) and it's both chemically and particle contaminant resistant. It's dynamic friction is greater than it's static friction so throttle action would be very smooth as well, with no sudden break-force. Too bad all my Delrin AF rod is too large for this.

Canoe
« Last Edit: August 29, 2006, 01:39:31 AM by Canoe »

Offline Canoe

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #8 on: August 29, 2006, 01:57:35 AM »
P.S.

Anyone know where I can get a "vacuum piston & metering rod assembly" for a BBD?

Or do I really need one? The piston body is slightly worn (green coating gone) on opposite sides for maybe 20% of it's length. The metering rods are worn thinner near their tip, around 10% thinner on one and the other is worn down by 25% on one side. The jets look fine. I've been all around town with the parts and the TSM - no luck.

Thanks,

Canoe

Offline ejw4x4

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2006, 07:54:10 PM »
Anyone know of any aftermarket jets that fit rhe BBDs I just busted one of mine in the take down, please help lol.
« Last Edit: September 08, 2006, 04:54:26 PM by ejw4x4 »
87' Eagle Wagon (SOLD)
94' Camaro Z28 grocery getter
66' Satellite (GTX clone project) 440/727

Offline ejw4x4

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2006, 09:46:41 PM »
I found Edelbrock jets part number 1425, the TSM says a 0.092. I ordered the Holley jet from Autozone and they were wrong size, they were 0.060.
« Last Edit: September 08, 2006, 03:58:22 PM by ejw4x4 »
87' Eagle Wagon (SOLD)
94' Camaro Z28 grocery getter
66' Satellite (GTX clone project) 440/727

Offline ejw4x4

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #11 on: August 31, 2006, 10:42:51 PM »
Bad news, the wheel on my stepper motor broke off as I removed it and one of the needles was stuck.
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Offline malcolmm

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2006, 10:57:52 PM »
I have one on an carb that I used for parts, you pay for shipping you can have it. I will not need it for I have put on the older bbd with out the stepper. Malcolm

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #13 on: September 03, 2006, 09:08:30 AM »
I opted for buying a rebuilt BBD instead of rebuilding the 8383 on the sedan. But the new carb did not include the solenoid!(One site calls it the idle stop solenoid; another the throttle solenoid; which is correct?) >:( The carb was $148 from Advance, with nice instructions and the gasket. But the parts houses cannot find the solenoid, looking it up as many different ways as we can. I even looked in the microfiche collection and pulled the original part number, but it doesn't help. We also looked up an '85 Jeep, with the same engine, and the solenoid they found looks close, except it has no vacuum connection and is a little shorter. But it is the one called for to go with this carburetor.   So...what is the correct part number for the solenoid, and where can I get one? The solenoid being bad was the primary reason for replacing the carb!

Offline IowaEagle

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #14 on: September 03, 2006, 09:54:50 AM »
The correct name is the Sole-Vac Holding Solenoid.   And in the microfiche AMC calls it a Throttle Solenoid.  The AMC part number appears to be J8963500171.
Click for Toledo, IA Forecast" border="0" height="100" width="150   


Not a Jeep.  Not a Car.  Its an AMC Eagle!

1982 Eagle SX/4 Sport;
1980 Concord DL;
1970 Ambassador 2 Dr HT, SST
2002 Hyundai Santa Fe;
2008 Jeep Patriot Sport - Freedom Drive II

Offline ejw4x4

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Re: Carter BDD Rebuild
« Reply #15 on: September 08, 2006, 03:59:55 PM »
I have one on an carb that I used for parts, you pay for shipping you can have it. I will not need it for I have put on the older bbd with out the stepper. Malcolm
What year of eagle is the stepper off of?
and how much to ship to Atascadero, CA 93422
« Last Edit: September 08, 2006, 04:01:36 PM by ejw4x4 »
87' Eagle Wagon (SOLD)
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Offline malcolmm

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Re: Carter BBD Rebuild
« Reply #16 on: September 09, 2006, 01:10:23 AM »
any where from 4 to 6 dollars. It came off of a 1982 I think. It does not have the vacuum port on the bottom, so it is an older one. Let me know if you want it. I know that it works ( I put it no my car to check). Malcolm :)

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Re: Carter BBD Rebuild
« Reply #17 on: May 12, 2011, 11:04:51 AM »
To revive or not to revive, that is the... well nevermind I'm posting.

I'm rebuilding the non-feedback bbd from the SX/4 right now.  I have found a few things the first being that the carb is likely not the original but from a CJ with a manual trans.  The second is there's a bit of wear in the throttle shaft and housing.  But I read in a manual here that one can buy bushings.  So a google search netted this:

http://www.supercooltools.com/html/ZA01/default.htm

It comes with the bushings and more can be purchased.  It seems as though you'd want a new throttle shaft as well because mine is worn but the bushing is for the original shaft diameter.  5/16" I believe is what they are (they have other reamer size kits too).  I have not found new shafts but haven't tried too hard either.  Considering the $ I'd sooner buy a rebuilt carb since doing one would not justify the expense.  But if I did that I'd explore other options such as junkyard TBI.

However, if someone wanted to do rebuilds as a side job, say someone with a sanctuary, this might be something to consider.  A carb rebuild could be a service that would not require travel to the sanctuary but simply shipping of the unit.  It might be something to consider for those interested in the idea looking for more work and thus $.  Rebuild kits are cheap so money could likely be made while saving nest members some too when compared to aftermarket rebuilt carb sources.

 

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